slick sand comments
 

I'm a bodyman and painter have been for years I have spent hundred of hours filling and sanding and I'm really picky

so tell me about this product
whats the do's and don'ts
any problems
and what kind of imperfections are u covering
and how are u applying this product

Re: slick sand comments
 

In a nutshell slick sand and the other poly primers are basically sprayable bondo.
A few dont's.
Don't hose the product on, 3 nice wet med coats will do just fine.
Only mix up enough product for one coat at a time. If you mix up enough product for say three coats all at once and have it sitting in the mixing cup, poly primer will start to kick over faster.
I spray poly primers with a 2.0 tip in my Sata KLC primer gun.

You can paint directly over poly primer but I wouldn't, I like to spray a few coats of urethane primer, block that then paint. Some guys I know just spray a sealer then paint...Eric

Re: slick sand comments
 

I definitely plan to try the slick sand a little later, but need some advice about my starting point: I have some epoxy primer for the base, but not sure if what I've done is enough prep to spray it -
these are pictures of my bed which I've gone over 2+ times with 80-grit. Much of the PO's mystery primer from 5 years ago and some filler are obviously still there. Do I need to do more forceful stripping before epoxy - maybe 40- or 60-grit - seems extreme??

Re: slick sand comments
 

pics didn't upload - trying again

Re: slick sand comments
 

once more

Re: slick sand comments
 

What type of sander are you using?
If you want to strip paint you should have a "TRUE" da sander that is capable of being locked into different modes. There would be a weight on the bottom of the sander that you lock into place which changes the rotational pattern of the sander.
You can put into a more aggressive grinder mode which when equipped with 80 grit should have those parts stripped in no time flat.

A "TRUE" da sander would be like the DA model from National Detroit. I have this sander, it's the industry standard in da sanders.
http://www.google.com/products/catal...d=0CD8Q8gIwAw#

I used this when I had to strip an entire 2004 F150 crew cab. Equipped with some 180 grit I could do the outside of the door in about 10 mins. The truck also had three paint jobs on it.

Ingersoll Rand 313 high speed sander
http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/a...6Image0030.jpg

Re: slick sand comments
 

Randy, sevt chevelle is right on.. 2.0 - 2.2 tip on devilbiss also, don't mix more that a cup at a time, not too thick on the coats...

steve, ... you can do which ever you choose, depends on time and money, chevelle is right, shouldnt take long to strip a panel with a d/a and 80 grit. even the chicago pneumatic d/a's work good, but if the po's bodywork is ok and still there, leave it... block it down with 80. spray the slick sand if you feel it is level enough , block that with 180, to 220....urethane primer.. finish to 360 - 400 paint it. epoxy not necessary unless you strip to metal imo...

Re: slick sand comments
 

Unfortunately, I don't have enough compressor for DA sander (no 220 in the shop) - am running a Dewalt 1/4-sheet palm sander (electric);
I've already invested in the epoxy primer, so I'll use that regardless. Thanks for the guidance, guys.

Re: slick sand comments
 

how ya gonna spray epoxy?

Re: slick sand comments
 

I thought that might come up-
My 5hp gas-powered compressor is rated to produce 9-10cfm, borderline or too little for a good DA, but I bought a low-cfm hvlp gun from Eastwood which is supposed to spray at 4.7cfm.
I'll see soon how that goes - I can do it in sections if necessary.

Re: slick sand comments
 

it'll be fine, I did that 20 years ago..LOL! just pic a line that you can paint too, like open a door and start at the door then go around keeping a wet edge, then when you get back to the open door you won't get dry spray onto the door panel....or use the hood or wherever..

Re: slick sand comments
 

sounds like a plan - the bed will be the guinea pig, then I'll attack the cab.
thanks again for the help.

Re: slick sand comments
 

I have a related question- I have used featherfill sprayable filler one time, and had a problem with it. Maybe someone can tell me what I did wrong- I sprayed 2 coats of Martin Senour epoxy primer, waited about an hour, then sprayed two coats of featherfill. After a couple of days, I block sanded the featherfill. It sanded great, but in the areas where I sanded through the featherfill to the epoxy, it was gummy enough that I could scrape the epoxy off with my fingernails to the bare metal. I've never had this problem with the epoxy before. Should I have let the epoxy cure longer?

Re: slick sand comments
 

I used slick sand on my truck this time around, and I am hooked. I am not that great at finishing my filler perfect, so the added fill is great. I took the whole truck to bare metal and did my bodywork. Then I put on two coats of kirker epoxy, let that flash for an hour and put on two coats of the slick sand. My spots where I broke through to the epoxy were not gummy at all. Once I started the priming, I used 180 grit dry to sand everything. I put on two more rounds of the slick sand, then followed with a couple of coats of urethane. I sanded all the urethane with 400 grit wet.

Defineatly be careful in the heat. It was about 95-100 in my shop when I was spraying some slick sand, and it started setting up in my gun. I focused my attention on cleaning out the gun with acetone. About 15 minutes later when my gun was clean, I went to deal with the mixing cup. I grabbed the stirring stick, and about a pint of primer and the stick came out as 1 piece!! This stuff sets up quick. To me that was actually impressive though, because look what happens when you leave some epoxy or urethane in the cup overnight, it buckles, shrinks, or doesn't dry at all if is too thick.

This paint job turned out better than any I have ever done.

Lynn
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/a...n69z/image.jpg

Re: slick sand comments
 

that looks really nice - I'm definitely trying the slick sand.

Re: slick sand comments
 

Epoxy by nature is a slow curing product. Most tech sheets say to wait overnight to apply body filler over epoxy when 2 coats is used.
Willing to bet the poly primer sealed the epoxy off from curing and the solvents couldn't escape from the epoxy keeping it gummy.

Most definitively let the epoxy cure for 24 hrs before applying filler or poly primer...Eric

Re: slick sand comments
 

hugger, did you use any metal treatment? I know some epoxies won't cure if a acid treatment or something is used? other than that, what sevtchevelle said is right, it takes it a while to cure..
another HUGE factor is heat..it cures at 72degrees when it gets cold it REALLY slows down.

Re: slick sand comments
 

Slick sand is my friend!! ;)

Re: slick sand comments
 

No metal treatment, just epoxy on bare metal. It was probably the temp and cure time, like you & Eric said. It was cooling down late in the evening, and was probably about 60 degrees when I sprayed the Featherfill. Thanks!

Re: slick sand comments
 

Slick Sand is a gift from heaven above for me and my lack of bodyworking skills.

I can get a panel laser straight with it, and I am not that good at bodywork.

Re: slick sand comments
 

This was brought up in another forum. Exact same thing happened and it was determined that the epoxy did not have enough time to cure out. Let the epoxy cure as long as possible.

Re: slick sand comments
 

Re: slick sand comments
 

Thanks guys I'm going to try it

Re: slick sand comments
 

so i have not used this slicksand at all before but wanting to try it soon but i have a question about it.

say i have an all bare metal panel then i do my bodywork, and go to spray the slicksand, what do you guys recomend spraying over the bare metal and body work before i put on the slicksand?

i saw someone mention epoxy but that stuff is the devil to me sometimes cause it drys so slow, i never seem to have good luck with it or it could just be me lol.

or what about house of kolors epoxy primer has anyone used that? would that work i heard it dries alot quicker but i dont know if you can topcoat with slicksand right over it without sanding.

thanks
josh

Re: slick sand comments
 

I have never used the HOK primer so not much help other than to say look up the P sheet online and it will tell you the drying times and the recoat windows. On the e-primers
I am use to useing you can recoat it without sanding . [again, if in the recoat window.]