Re: Restoring Rusty
 

ok, I got some more issues / questions

Second question. Can I replace this hard line for the brake booster with a regular all rubber brake booster hose? Should I find / run a 90* elbow thingie at the back of the carb or just loop the hose around?

I ask because the original carb had a screw in outlet in the back of the carb and this new one doesn't, it has a traditional 3/8th nipple.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

last issue / question

the throttle linkage bracket I bought is not for this carb model, I knew that going in but I thought I could make it work, it does not have some sort of anchor to keep it from swiveling around the bolt, in the pic I show you what can happen if it comes loose as it is only held on by one bolt, not like the old original bracket which was held on by two bolts (by the way the old bracket does not fit this carb)

any of you running Holley carbs and can recommend a proper bracket

all help / advice much appreciated

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

I would just delete the evap stuff unless you want to keep it. Thats one of the first things i do one I start a new project is delete all of that stuff.
You can replace the hard line with rubber hose, just buy some good quality hose.
I'm running a Summit bracket on mine and I have the same carb as you. Part #SUM-G1414

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

LSX I Love You Man!

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

I have discovered that I need one of those bracket. My truck has a 700r and would not shift properly after the previous ouner install a new engine and carb. The bracket that was installed when I got the truck moved just like yours and caused the throttle cable to bind. I learned from forum members that I need this bracket to get rid of the movement as well as to properly set up the tv cable.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

What is that gold bracket bolted to the intake for?

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To convert the brake booster line to all rubber you'll need to find a NPT nipple that will fit. On my carb they put a NPT bung to allow a nipple attachment.

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Jake are you talking about the triangle looking thing in that red square? If so I did not even notice it, but I really don't know. It's not part of the throttle bracket.

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Yes you can run all rubber line to the booster.

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Yes, cannot figure that one out. Now I know it did not come with the kit, Thanks!

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

I would recommend when replacing the metal booster line to use a rubber hose designed for vaccum booster applicaitions and not fuel hose. Got mine at O'reilly's. They didn't know what I was talking about but fianally found a part number and ordered one.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

so the second bracket arrived today, here are some pics of it, I took it appart to show you how it comes with three different attachments for three different applications I guess, I at least was a bit confused looking on the original image of it with all the brackets on there, so I took it apart to simplify things

the last pic shows you the one I was planning on using

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here is how the second bracket compares to the first

I must admit the first bracket is made out of much stronger material, the second one is super flimzy

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Verdict: same problem as with the first bracket there is nothing stopping it from swiveling out too far and causing the cable to potentially bind, not good

now normally I would not be such a Diva about it, but again this is the throttle and I am not going to take any chances, the pics tell the story below, you can see that non of these brackets have a metal stub if you will that goes into that square hole in front of the bolt that holds the bracket down

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

OK time to order a third bracket, yes ladies and gentlemen this is how the game is played, I call it Bracket Hell and I've been there before with Alternator brackets for a 302 [shrugs shoulders]

CARBURETOR THROTTLE CABLE BRACKET
Carburetor Throttle Cable Bracket For Use w/Holley Spread Bore Models 4165 & 4175
PART# 20-32
Suggested Retail: $34.56
Your Price:$31.10 of course it's got to be the most expensive one!

https://www.holley.com/products/fuel...ge/parts/20-32

Will the third time be the charm?

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

On the brighter side of sports, I decided to delete the PCV system all together and replace the ugly hoses with breathers. I got this Spectre push in breather at AutoZone and a new rubber grommet for the passenger side valve cover, see what you think

I am not too crazy about the mushroom being chrome I would prefer it in black so I see some etch primer and a coat of semi flat in its future

by the way, naturally it doesn't sit quite flush because it interferes with that cable bracket on the valve cover ~ but that's how it all starts, now do I shave off the bracket or do I leave it or do I get different brackets, see how the game is played? one thing leads to another, to another

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Greg, I know how frustrating those carb throttle brackets can be. I make my own, because I want to avoid exactly the problem you're describing. Now, I have seen some brackets that loop all the way around the carb and tie into both studs that hold the carb to the manifold.

But I really like the work you're doing.

About the fuel gauge, there's probably a break in the wire somewhere. When the tank is empty, the sender is 0 ohms. When the tank is full, the sender is 90 ohms. So when the wire breaks, the resistance goes to infinity, and the gauge pegs Full. It's a pink wire, at least on my 77.

By the way, you could run your brake booster off the tapped hole in the manifold that you plugged, instead of the carb, if that gives you a cleaner setup.

Keep the progress coming.

Greg

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

I recon you are thinking of one that looks like this, I just discovered it also, but I am not a huge fan of sandwiching that wrap around bracket in between two base carb gaskets, seems like doubling our chances of a vacuum leak, at $80 bones it is also pricey, but maybe this one will be my last resort

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then as if that wasn't enuff Bracketology Talk for you, there is this one to wrap your mind around as it wraps half way around the carb

$35 bucks and FREE shipping on Ebay says it is finally specifically for the 4150 and 4160 carbs, uses two bolts to mount up to the carb like God intended, what's not to like

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Post the link for that.

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OK, now I am upset, upset with the guys/gals who designed the Holley website

I was looking for brackets under

Home / Fuel Systems / Carburetor Components / Brackets and Linkage /

makes sense right, look at that path it leads to Brackets and Linkage ie that's what I want a Bracket for the 4160 carb

but no those knuckleheads put the bracket I want the bracket specifically designed for the 4160 carb Part # 20-88 under

Home / Fuel Systems / Carburetor Components / Carburetor Accessories

"Accessories" for crying out loud?

~ you mean all this drama could have been easily avoided ~

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

I just had a similar experience at AutoZone. The young man was very helpful and took me to the back where they cut the hoses from large spools. He looked up at the rack in front of him and said we have Fuel Lines, Transmission Lines and Vacuum Hoses. I looked up at the rack and sure as sh!t it said on there, Fuel Lines, Transmission Lines, and Vacuum Hoses, LOL.

Then he hands me a 3/8ths transmission line and I feels it and it feels just too soft, so we move on and he says here this is what you need and hands me a Low Emission Fuel Injection line.

I remind him that what I need is a 3/8 vacuum hose for the brake booster, a line that will not collapse.

I ended up buying 3 feet of that Cadna 50088 fuel injection line. I'm no Hose Scientist or nothing but I recon a fuel injection line is more stronger than a regular fuel line, at least it feel strong and stiff

FYI, there is absolutely no writing of any kind on my old brake booster hose line to give me any clues as to what to look for in a line.

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I hope this is what you meant and were after I found it on eBay

http://www.ebay.com/itm/130823372709...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

if the link is expired then try this Title

HOLLEY 4150 4160 POLISHED ALUMINUM THROTTLE CABLE CARB BRACKET CARBURETOR 350

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Keep on pluggin. You are doing a dang good job.

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Great work and enjoying your build, keep it coming.

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Why thank you Greg I appreciate the kind words and all the advice

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Thank you Rusty!

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Thank you Mr. Retired, lol

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

got going on Rusty again today, wanted to button him up

first put in the second push in breather in the driver side valve cover

AutoZone only stocks one of these breathers and one of the rubber base grommets so I had to hit a couple stores to get em

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

next it was time to replace the stock thermostat housing ie water outlet, I really don't care for chrome bits, I just wanted something without that ugly therma switch double nipple appendage

I believe the kind I got comes with a built in rubber O ring so I didn't even need the typical gasket, maybe somebody can confirm that for me

it even came with auto/car style bolts, so I didn't have to go to the hardware store, I was glad since the new housing is way taller on one side for some odd reason so it requires a longer bolt

I even used anit sieze and torqued the bolts to 25 ft lbs, the manual said 30 but this new part is not at hard as the stock one it feels a bit flimzy so I took it easy

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man the new water outlet looked great - - - TOO BAD IT WAS WRONG!!!

I forgot that the alternator bracket mounts to one of the water outlet bolts, silly rabbit

so out came the wire wheel and I had to clean the old special bolt for reuse

then loosen both bolts and start torquing all over again ~ fun

honestly I knew there was something special about this water outlet bolts but I thought I would have to buy the longer bolt, when I realized it came with the housing I got so excited I forgot about his neighbor with special skills on the other side

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Good call Greg (and others who have suggested I do that), thank you

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

next I cleaned and reinstalled the original hard fuel line, I didn't think it would be wise to run a 4 foot all rubber fuel line to the fuel pump from the carburetor

I still need to resolve the threaded end on the hard line situation to mate it to the 3/8ths nipple on the new carb

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

cleaned up a bit the space where the alternator lived

sharing a before and after pic

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no sense in dropping a dirty alternator into that clean new space so I gave it a bit of a gentle back scrub with the ol' wire wheel

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also didn't paint the alternator bracket because eventually I will relocate the alternator lower using one of them mid mount set ups, and I don't like painting in the winter time

I degreased the bracket and yes it looks like crap

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the third throttle linkage bracket had not shown up yet so I mounted up the second one I got for now (just to pull the truck out of the garage and into the driveway, the lady of the house wants her space back)

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Re: Restoring Rusty
 

decided this was as good of a time as any to pull that pink resistor ignition wire and replace it with a regular one, since I had to wire up the electric choke and all

I ended up using a brown wire I yanked out during the SMOG system deletion phase, this is a temporary solution till I find the right wire at the junkyard

today's mission was get that ol' truck running at any cost

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at this point I was feeling anxious, just wanted to hear this thing run, and my work was getting sloppy

for example I didn't bother wire wheeling the old distributor hold down bracket notice the specs of orange paint left on it (now that's not like me, did I run out of beer or something?)