Re: Restoring Rusty
 

just wanted to give you a quick winter update, Rusty and I ain't much for doin' now days during the winter time, but wanted to show you what happens to a man's garage moments after the wife discovers Overstock.com, ha ha

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Gregski-
Took almost a month for me to get through this thread. Must say... it's been interesting to say the least. I've been through many of the items you've experienced and I have to commend you on your sticktoitness. it"s greater than mine. like a scab you can't leave alone, I'm eagerly awaiting your next update.

Keep on keeping on...
-Tony

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

thank you Tony for the feedback it keeps me motivated

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so it's been a while since I last updated this thread or better yet done something to the truck, ha ha, well you know The Greg does not like Winter Projects and I must admit I went into hibernation for a while on the account of the Nor Cal weather dropping to below 70*, treacherous I tell ya

but on the account of it officially being Spring, lets git to it

well what do we have here, a brand spankin' new inner box for gloves?

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and here's why we bought a brand new one instead of MacGeyvering the old one with a good ol' piano hinge

as you can see the sides were perished as well

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I recommend you set aside 60 hours for this project... 59.5 to get the stupid lock mechanism out, and 1/2 hour for everything else, ha ha

Top Tip - don't go pockin' anything like a paper clip into that hole in the twisty knob thingie, it's there just to show you that GM engineers have a sense of humor


Top Tip 2 - use a super skinny flat screw driver to push in that little pin thingie in the hole in the picture, that will allow the lock to slide out about 1/4 inch, then do it again to the second pin in the same hole and then it will come all the way out

Fun Level = 2

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58 1/2 hours later...

anatomy of a C10 glove box lock latch

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and here's the real reason we are doing this, apparently in 1973 GM thought fatiguing plastic will out last a metal piano hinge and decided to fix what wasn't broken, I swear the only things that have broken on my truck have been plastic bits! surprise?

Note there is a metal bar that runs across underneath the plastic piece that attaches to the bottom of the dash board

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mandatory stare and compare, old vs new

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This is not a bad camera angle! This is not an optical illusion either!

this is jus how the brand new box comes it is off by 1/2 an inch from the left side to the right by design, if you put your head under the dash and look up you will see that that part of the dash metal piece actually goes from skinny to fat as it goes across

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

How is the LS swap going?

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Ha, thanks for following up, well April taxes ripped me a new one so I hope to drop off the 1999 Suburban roller cam short block at the engine builder next month in May, and go that route first, if they tell me this block is junk, than we do the LS thang, stay tunned.

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Crazy thread man... haha.

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Wow.....

Mind sharing where you got this? I'm looking to pick one up soon and am really hoping they're not all made by the same company!

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thanks I guess, I hope you mean "Crazy" in a good way, ha ha

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you bet, this is why I share, just looking out for one another, so I get my parts from Classic Parts out of Riverside, Missouri

They have been great up to this point and I prefer them over LMC Truck since LMC is just a call center and has not Tech Support, but I called them on this part and they said it should work and that's just how they come

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so yeah a quick update since I haven't been posting, well I suck I will be turning 47 in a few days here, and for my birthday I decided to get a hernia, yup, got scheduled for surgery in a few months (they are super booked out, I guess it's the operation to get if you are thinking of going under the knife, ha ha), so what would have been a lovely time to rebuild that '99 Suburban roller cam engine and swap it in has me grounded and going stir crazy - - - watching LS swap videos ???

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http://bowtieguy.proboards.com/threa...box-lock-truck

I wish I had read this sooner, or know you needed this link.

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this just happened...

5.3 L LM7 truck engine from a _________ Chevrolet Silverado

4L60E automatic RWD transmission

all there but the starter

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The plot thickens....

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yes sir, game on, the wiring harness is in that white garbage bag, and the computer aka the PCM in a grocery bag in the cab, ha ha, so it's all pretty much there, Top Tip: buy as much as you can in one shot! so you don't get nickle and dimes to death

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Nice!!

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oh yeah, and only $1K for both the engine, transmission, wiring harness, and computer, HUGE THANK YOU TO THE SELLER, such a cool guy

12200411 = 2001-02 PCM

red/blue connectors = 1999-02 drive by cable

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spoiler alert:

You will LOVE the LS motor! Mine was worth all the work, X2!

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Bro, other than having to dust off my metric socket set, ha ha, so true, ten minutes with her and I am already like wow I love the valve cover design, it will not leak oil with the high cylinder walls, every bolt I go to remove comes out cause to me a 20 year old engine is BRAND NEW ha ha having worked on a 45 year old one

no broken off exhaust manifold bolts, that's a surprise

anybody know if the exhaust manifold flange will fit the downpipes from a 5.7 Vortec like off of a 1999 Tahoe/Suburban?

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my truck did not have AC from the factory so I decided to delete the AC on the LM7 5.3 L engine, so easy, the AC compressor uses it's own belt and belt tensioner so it all comes off super easy and there is no need for an idler pulley to replace the compressor one, nice

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

If I remember correctly, you went to a bit of trouble to put a manual in your truck. Correct or no?

If so, are you intending to stay with a good stick-shift, or install that slushbox? You can probably guess which way I vote. :)

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I am in for this swap!

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what you did not read this thread in it's entirety? LOL

my truck originally was a 4 speed manual (SM465 iron granny gear box), and the reason I bought it, regardless of what people say manual trucks are very hard to find be it 45 year old or modern, trust me I know I have been looking for them for years

I swapped the SM 465 for an A833 like GM 4 speed (from GM mid 80s trucks, direct bolt on no trouble at all) with overdrive, so one GM trans for another GM manual factory trans

I luv stick shifts - after all I am European (shh don't tell anybody)

I really wanted to go 6.0L with the NV4500 5 speed manual but those are Unicorns and immpossible to find, the only two trucks I have seen with those in the entire United States were 4x4s and I want a RWD

The 5.3L LM7 engines only came with Automatic transmissions

since this is my first swap I am keeping it simple and installing the 5.3 with the 4L60E automatic

and YES, the day after I install it a 6.0L manual donor truck will pop up on Craigslist, ha ha ha

good questions bro,
G

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Me Too!

so one of the reasons I got such a great deal on this combo is because the owner did not know the VIN and could not tell me that information (knowing the VIN was important to me because I did not see all these parts come out of the same vehicle so I wanted to run a VIN checker to find out what year this was off of and confirm it was a RWD originally, etc.)

so off to Pick N Pull I went and bought just the blue connector for the computer and a Obi-Wan Kenobi port so that we could make ourselves a bench harness, which for us Carburetor Generation is just a cable that will connect the car computer aka the PCM (while out of the car) to our laptop so that we can get some information off of it. I also bought a generic universal 12 volt 1.5 Amp AC adapter to power up the PCM off the car.

while we wait on our $300 dollar HP MPVI2 Tuner to arrive we are going to try to get the VIN at least off of this PCM using an ELM 327 Interface (serial dongle that plugs into a cars OBD2 on one end and the USB port on your laptop on the other end)

NOTE: you can pull some information off of the PCM this way and clear the error codes, but you CAN NOT program it with this hack.

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and then the gods smiled at us and said let there be LS Swaps...

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... and pretty soon we were WINNING

I don't know much about the 5.3 L LS engines but I do know that in 2002 they got rid of the EGR holes in the exhaust manifolds, so rather than buy block off plates for mine (2001 ?) I decided to just swap the manifolds for that oh so important cleaner look - Chics dig smooth manifolds!

this was such a triple win:

1. we got EGR hole free manifolds

2. they came with downpipes (less bending of pipes for me)

3. they came with downpipes that had O2 bungs already in them in the factory locations

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Programming the 6.0L LQ4 or LQ9 PCM to operate stand-alone for a Manual transmission or early mechanical Automagic is the same as programming the 5.3L LM7 PCM for the same. Other people have done this so tune files that you can peruse to see how the other guys did it should be easily available.
You can change from 4x4 to 2x4 just as easily.

Programming...

Programming the PCM to GM defaults for the donor engine and settings you want would be my first step. Pick a VIN for the LM7 that has a manual transmission and 2WD. Who cares what the VIN in the PCM is as long as it has the options you want so you can write the proper baseline Calibrations to the PCM. If you look at my 2005 Silverado thread there's info on how to do this using a Chinese WiFi MDI or GM VX Diag or some other SAE J2534 interface and the AC Delco TIS web applet. You will have to pay $40 for a 2 year Delco TIS subscription... HP Tuners MPVI2 doesn't act as a J2534 interface.

First set the PCM to an original GM baseline via TIS then start tuning it. Why do I say this?
HP Tuners, and likely others, business model is geared toward servicing professional "tuner" shops. Hobbyists appear to be an annoyance to them. The "single PCM" credits you buy are supposedly licensed to one PCM. There is no un-changeable ESN in the PCM so "Licensed to a PCM" is not an accurate description of how they are determining what PCM is connected to the interface. As near as I can determine they use the PCM Operating System, VIN, and several other software settable items to determine what PCM the interface is connected to. These software settable items could be changed by an update from TIS. If you change/update the OS or configs from TIS after you register HP Credits to the PCM it will void the credits even tho you haven't changed the hardware. They will make you buy two more credits for the "new" PCM. They are pretty hard nosed about it too.

I believe the LQ4 and LQ9 cranks were bored for a pilot bearing. You just have to get one that matches the input shaft on your transmission.

The LS bellhousing is missing one of the RH bolts but the old Chevy bellhousing will still bolt up.

The flywheel and possibly the transmission input shaft length is where it starts to get fun. The distance of the flywheel mounting surface of the crank to the bellhousing mounting surface differ from the old Chebby smallblock and big block engines.

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PICK-n-PULL is also a great place to document how things are connected. Here we snap a pic of one of the ground straps and file it for later. It runs from the back of the driver side cylinder head to the firewall, yes we tried to remove it but that bolt in the back of the cylinder head is impossible to get at while the engine is still in the vehicle, thank you GM (does the G stand for German, LOL)

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

top of the morning to you my fellow LS Swappers

decided to evaluate the wiring harness, I knew it was a bit ruff

it appears the previous owner started to thin it out already and judging from the way he put the blue pin guard thingies upside down I have a tendency not to trust his work too much, ha ha

why not just send that harness in to a pro to have him do it for you?

well now how do we expect to fill the Cuss Jar if we do that?

Please Note: there are so many outstanding tutorials WW.LT1SWAP.COM on all things LS Swap that I am not going to reinvent the wheel and do a how to, but just share with you some things from my crazy Pollack perspective (ie LS Swap for the Complete Idiot underlined for emphasis not a link, ha ha)

I will be following the procedures using the [ahem] Old Testament found here: PCM Connector Pinouts 99-02 to identify and label all the connectors.

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Seriously, that is Information Gold right there bro

thank you so much

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The HP Tuners way of installing a "new" PCM is geared toward optimizing their profitability and steering you toward buying year or model blocks for more $.
You don't have to buy 6 credits to program a replacement GMT800 PCM...
Program the "new" PCM to the VIN you are using with TIS and a J2534 interface... then purchase 2 HPT credits for that "new PCM".

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

The 5.3 LM7 should be bored for a pilot bearing as well. After all, it was the same crank as a 6.0, which was optioned with a manual.

Put a 4.8/6.0 flywheel on the 5.3, and you'll be within adjustment distance of the original small block.

The Vehicle speed sensor could cause some issues. I'm still looking into that on a Gen 4. I also intend to get an accurate enough signal through the computer to run a stock '91 speedo.

Some random measurements and notes of mine are found here.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

so my harness is 90% good except for the branch that runs to the MAF which includes the passenger side two O2 sensors, well the previous owner cut them both off, so I yanked out the after cat wires and left the pre cat ones in, but I am stumped by some junk that appears to be spliced on to a black ground, one pink wire, and one really heavy gauge red wire that runs up to the fuse block with a single black connector

maybe one of youz can help me out

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

I have the 2005 service manuals in hardcopy but those are for the 2nd design T800 chassis. Unfortunately your donor was 1st design T800.
Alldata has Mitchell wiring diagrams. Not GM... and there are errors in some areas but definitely better than Haynes or Chilton.

Maybe my 2005 wiring diagrams could shed some light on it. What position on the fuse/relay block was that plugged into?