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I am in the process of building the seat frames for my buckets in my 50, one thing I learned is the seats are lower in the back than the front. I had mine all level and it looked wrong. the back is 1 to 1.5 inches lower than the front.

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Thanks for the heads up. That is what I am figuring out now. Since these are third row seats and mount on a stock flat floor I think the frame needs to be level. But I am making the frame to body brackets adjustable so I can adjust the tilt. I need to get the real column in to make sure that will work ok too.

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here are a few pics of mine I made today, AD cabs floor has a big dip in it wich makes it just a little more dificult to get things right. mine is 2 inches higher in the front. thats what I needed to make my seats fit right.

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1.../crusin033.jpg

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1.../crusin037.jpg

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You have a challenge with the floor difference, mine is flat except for a couple of crossbraces. I measured the position of the seat in my wife's CRV for angle of the seat back since I know that is comfortable on long trips. I am going to use 5/8" treaded rod with nuts on the top and bottom of frame at the front for adjustment. The frame lines up with the stock mounting locations with an additional brace in the center front and back.

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Since I got buried on page three figured I'd better post some progress pics. First is the SECOND column in its final mockup place. I talked to EZ wire and they confirmed that GM only had two types of column connectors between 70 and 92 and they supply both in their kit. Figured out the rod for the high beam moves away from the bracket so no conflict, I think I will need to figure out that wiring when I get the kit to circumvent the floor switch. Next is photo of transfer shifter and seat, no interference. Next is shot of steering shaft location. Then a close up showing that while the shifter arm clears the exhaust manifold it would go right through the brake pedel. Good news is Lokar makes a cable kit just for that purpose, easy fix just another $125 to spend. Finally the suspense was killing me so I jammed my free vintage air system up under the dash to check fit. Tight but it was made for the space. You end up with a "glove" box about 2" deep. I don't care for the outlets, the plastic looks a little cheesy. I may end up with a center console for ac outlets, guages and some power outlets, and the required cup/can holders. Enjoy, I am (according to my wife way to much).

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looking good, billet specialties and a few others make some nice a/c vents. I agree the plastic ones look cheap. interference with the brake pedal is one reason I went with a floor shifter, that and I had a free one from an 08 mustang GT.

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Great looking project, i like the seat you are using, these will solve my seat belt issues. I will be looking for a set for my project. Keep up the good work.

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Just a tip I found working on my 57 - I got a tilt column from a Chevy Astro van and the shift arm is on the driver side of the column so no engine interference. It used these big old adjustable rods that looked hard to adapt so I am gonna use a Lokar type cable shifter I got on the e-nasty auction for $40. [Some day I am gonna actually start my thread with pictures and everthing]

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It its last life I had a 67 Camaro floor shifter but found when I had one of the kids in the middle seat they would sometimes kick it out of gear and I want to keep the floor as clear as possible. I went with these seats because of the integrated seat belts too, minimize interior cutting and reinforcing on the body for the upper third point attachment. I looked at the Astro columns but already had the eldo column before I found this site, and like others bucks are tight.

Hotrodsbyray - have you put on the shifter cable assy yet? From the pics at the Lokar site it looks pretty straight forward.

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Here are photos of the steering column drop bracket I fabricated. It uses the stock bracket modified to fit a muffler U bracket. The drop is acheived using 3/8" couplings and threaded rod. The first two photos show the stock bracket from the bottom and side. Next ploto shows the modified bracket, the sides towards the firewall and stock dash mount wings are trimmed off, spot welded to the U piece. I then checked the fit and welded it up, last photo shows the finished piece ready to paint. It will be covered after installation.

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using your head and stuff you probably had lying around. good job

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I've got 40 years of stuff to draw from. Drives the wife nuts but I just remind her of all the old fabric and furniture refinishing stuff she has in her stash! For me that is the fun part of this, figuring out the most elegant solution to each fabrication.

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Todays progress was finishing up the bottom steering column bracket and continuing work on the seat frame now that the steering is set. First photo shows the bracket, shaped to fit in the odd shaped recess. Bonus is it covers the clutch and elongated steering holes. I made it in two pieces and welded it to the column, makes for a sturdy clean floor. Next photo is the rear seat frame to floor bracket. Bottom is in the stock location, top will be drilled for a 1/2" bolt to allow adjustment. Last photo is a mock up of the front using 5/8" threaded rod for adjustment.

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looking good, it is definetly getting there, what are you gonna do for sealing the column to the floor?

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I will set the bottom plate in sealant, then plan on turning on a bright light on the outside and sealing any light leakes with seam sealer. Heat barrier and carpet will go over that so it should be fume tight. Around the brake I will use felt much like stock.

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I haven't put the shifter cable in yet but found an awesome article on how to do it from one of the custom rodder mags - I didn't save the site but printed the article. I will check my shop files and see if I can find the site for you. Looks pretty straight forward.

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Looking on-line it looks like the Ididit will work best and if not can be mofied easier than the billet Lokar model. Ididit has some horseshoe and half moon deals but I did some mocking up and any rod is going to interfer with something. If you find the article please post it, like you said it doesn't look that hard just have to snake it through the brake, ebrake, speedo cable, vaccum booster line and wiring all in that same location.

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Last night finished the seat frame. Relearned an old lesson do NOT put the 1/2" drill on auto pilot when drilling deep holes in to metal. I have a broken drill bit, sore wrist and pretty good bruise on my chest from when it caught and things went bad. Luckily it hit the floor and not my leg when I had to let go of it.

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Lots of progress on steering and seat. First photo is the seat frame completed except for some grinding and paint. Front all thread is 5/8", I wanted adjustment since the seat is a static mount. Next is a close up of the upper steering column mount in final installed position with shims over the thread. Next is bottom plate in place. Hope it warms up soon so I can start painting some of this stuff.

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Got a 2000 Astro Van intermediate steering shaft at wrecking yard for $10. Upper part fits my 82 Eldorado column (and probably other GM columns) bottom has 3/4" x 36 spline that fits my 74 3/4 ton PS box. First photo shows the astro piece, second the 74 truck intermediate shaft with the cut points shown. Next shows it installed. Astro comes apart and 74 middle piece (DD shaft) us used to splice in. I will pin and spot weld it at the two end splices, the center has 2" to allow for 3/4" movement as the frame flexs. I jacked up each side to see how much movement there would be, simulating running over bumps in the hills. With both wheels up it turns fine with no binding.

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Hey OrrieG, you posted on Tri5Nerd's thread on Feb 13 that you were building a dash panel that fits to the bottom of your dash to house your ac/heat vents...how is that coming along? Can you post pics if you have made any progress...I would like to do the same thing.

Thanks!

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I make a sketch and started a mock up which was going to include some guages to supplement the stock ones. After looking at guage prices I am now leaning towards just getting a dakota digital to keep the console area cleaner. Until I decide, dash panel is on hold. Plus I came into a little bit of cash to buy some stuff so I can finish the ac hoses, trans cable and other minor things that are starting to get in the way of progress. When I get the dash mock ups they will be posted for comments.

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I found a decent set of Dolphin gauges with billet insert on Ebay. I know they aren't the best brand but, it was about half of anything comparable.

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Great. I use the Ebay search with notification, and have gotten some good deals too. Craigs list too. With the economy it looks like there is lots of project stashes being raided. I've also noticed that the junk yard prices have come down too. Is it one of the mill-balled ones?? White or black face guages? I am flip flopping around on the face color, leaning towards black but also thinking white would stand out as being different.

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how do you do this?