Refreshing the Fontend 72 C10
 

So I am building up a RockAuto Cart of parts so I can refresh my frontend. I wanted to go all ACDELCO but one of the tie rods didn't have a ACDELCO part (seems no one has it) so I matched the tie rods to 'MOOGs'. I also tried to go ACDELCO Professional, where the had that choice.

x1 Idler Arm ACDELCO 45C1081
x1 Pitman Arm ACDELCO 45C0004
x2 Outer Tie Rod End MOOG ES415RL
x2 Inner Tie Rod End MOOG ES403L
x2 Tie Rod End Adjusting Sleeve ACDELCO 45A6004
x2 Upper Control Arm Shaft Kit ACDELCO 46J0003A
x2 Lower Control Arm Shaft Kit ACDELCO 45J0017
x2 Upper Ball Joint ACDELCO 46D2021A
x2 Upper Ball Joint ACDELCO 46D0022A

Am I missing something I should be getting for the front end? Do I have the amounts of each item correct too?

I'll also be installing a new front stabilizer bar too - my truck didn't come with one. I just haven't decided which one to get yet.

Thanks for a extra pair of eyes for my parts list!

Re: Refreshing the Fontend 72 C10
 

Your list looks complete. Only thing I can think of is to double check the pitman arm. They make one for manual or power steering, so get the right one. Make sure you paint the parts cause they'll rust quickly and look like crap.

A sway bar is a great idea too, they really help the handling. I added a rear sway bar as well; it handles great.

Re: Refreshing the Fontend 72 C10
 

Yep, I got the one "listed" as power steering :)

ACDELCO 45C0004 {#88911189} Professional Power Steering

Thank you 68 P.O.S. - it is really great to have a 2nd pair of eyes. It would really suck if I forget to get "x" part LOL

Re: Refreshing the Fontend 72 C10
 

Oh ... painting? Should I need to use a primer? Is using a basic rattle can black okay? Or should I get some kind of super paint?

Re: Refreshing the Fontend 72 C10
 

For mine, I went cheap. I wire brushed and cleaned them real well, then I painted them with a few coats of VHT chassis paint in a spray can.

Re: Refreshing the Fontend 72 C10
 

okay, cool - seems simple enough. Again thank you for the tips!

Looks like I'll be adding the Classic Performance Sway Bar Kits CPP7423 1 1/4 in. Diameter to my front end refresh too! Seems all that I read is how good this upgrade is for our trucks.

Re: Refreshing the Fontend 72 C10
 

You're welcome, glad I could help :metal:

Perfect, you should be good to go then :smoke:

Another thing I thought of, the lower ball joints need to be pressed in & out of the lower A arms. You can rent the tool at the parts stores and it worked perfectly for me. Also, I bought a cheap Harbor Freight 3/4" drive socket set for the A arm shafts.

Re: Refreshing the Fontend 72 C10
 

You'll enjoy the performance enhancement the sway bar will provide. Mine didn't have one either, so I added a front and rear and it handles great now. Stays nice and flat

Re: Refreshing the Fontend 72 C10
 

I have a tread saved about those ball joints - sounds like a LOT of fun. I have shot over my parts list to my brother (he has a shop that is better than my tool sets) and I mentioned to him about the fun with them. I'm pretty sure he has one or more of those fork things but I am not sure about a press.

The good thing my brother is rather clever and having both of us work on it will be a lot better than going on it alone (like I saw a fellow do in a form thread). Though he was able to do it with a lot of very helpful tips.

Re: Refreshing the Fontend 72 C10
 

The whole job isn't hard at all. I've done it a couple times now with relative ease. It can get time consuming, but its really not difficult. With the ball joints, I don't even bother with the pickle forks, a bfh always pops 'em loose. Rent the ball joint service kit from a parts store (it's just a big c-clamp w/ accessories) and you won't need a press. Easy peasy. You may need a pickle fork for the tie rods, but again, a bfh usually works for me.

Re: Refreshing the Fontend 72 C10
 

here is a diy ball joint separator no pickle fork needed


http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=624464

Re: Refreshing the Fontend 72 C10
 

I saw that earlier but it now makes more sense to me after looking at it again. thank you for pointing it out - I'll get those bits from Lowes and make that up!

again, thank you gmc684x4!

Re: Refreshing the Fontend 72 C10
 

For anyone else looking to do the same if figured i would chime in. Moog actually makes this really easy, they sell a complete kit. All the parts are listed on their website. I actually prefer Moog over AcDelco.

https://www.moog-suspension-parts.co...packagedeal146

Re: Refreshing the Fontend 72 C10
 

The bfh route works the same, except you rely on the pressure from the coil spring instead of the bolts. Either way works just fine.

Re: Refreshing the Fontend 72 C10
 

Interesting. All the parts that I have in my basket, which includes Pitman, Idler, upper/lower control Arm Shafts that the Moog kit does include is $340.06 at RockAuto.

That Moog kit is 376.66 (free shipping) on their site.

Is the Moog that much better than the ACDelco (which almost all is the Professional line). I am not one to fuss over 30 bucks, if that 30 buck means it is that much better (or even more).

Edit:
Actually, I am thinking I don't need the upper/lower control Arm Shafts.

Re: Refreshing the Fontend 72 C10
 

I recommend the factory 1-1/4" sway bar came on many trucks till 87 and Suburbans till 92. Junk yard item for under $50 bucks. Since your truck didn't come with a sway bar don't forget to grab the mounting brackets too.
Upgrade the rubber bushings to new greasable polyurethane ones and your all set for under a C-note.
Lots of threads on this upgrade here on the forum.

Re: Refreshing the Fontend 72 C10
 

Hmm, looks like ACDelco Professional and Moog K series are similar but Moog tends to be better?

https://toolingfun.com/moog-vs-acdel...pension-parts/

So getting all Moog from RockAuto, including the Pitman and Idler Arm (and matching all the Moog Kit Part numbers). The cost from RockAuto is $287.84 so much cheaper to build out the kit on RockAuto, than to buy the kit from Moog.

So I think I'll have everything match to Moog now. Thank you Big Kev-O for making me do some checking on ACDelco vs Moog

Re: Refreshing the Fontend 72 C10
 

The price difference is not so much with the kit. It's not that I mind hunting for one at a yard, its just I am to lazy for a small-ish part like this. Unless there is something sub-par about that Classic Performance Sway Bar Kits (CPP7423 1 1/4 in.).

Re: Refreshing the Fontend 72 C10
 

Oe sway bars usually fit better especially if there in a dropped truck

Re: Refreshing the Fontend 72 C10
 

Since you will have the truck up in the air anyway...(this is called "scope creep"), :lol: how old are your front brake hoses? Also, when you pop this apart, don't let the caliper hang from the brake hose.

Re: Refreshing the Fontend 72 C10
 

Ya, was thinking the same thing - might as well replace them while in that area.

Re: Refreshing the Fontend 72 C10
 

I just did this to my 67 and went with all MOOG parts, even the new front springs. I've been using MOOG since I was a teenager and have always had good results. Guess that is over 30 years now.

Re: Refreshing the Fontend 72 C10
 

Thank you for that insight 67C10Step!

@Steeveedee - as for how old are my hoses - no real idea. Could be original as far as I know!

Re: Refreshing the Fontend 72 C10
 

I used all MOOG parts from Rockauto , Make sure you paint them before install . Also the inner tie rod ends come with a straight Zerk grease fitting that's up close to the cross member , if you change that fitting to a 90 with the end pointing out towards the wheel it's much easier to get a grease gun on them when it's needed . :chevy:

Re: Refreshing the Fontend 72 C10
 

I did the same with my front suspension all new but I also replaced the front springs while the front was all apart, I figured why not go fresh new springs too. While the time and money was good I did go with new springs a shocks all around at that same time. I used a 72 sway bar set up, what a difference. I did use all moog parts and they were
U.S.A. made then not sure about now, I hope though. I cleaned all parts used black primer and satin black rattle can paint, make sure you spray the inside of the sleeves so they don't rust up like mine. Thanks to my friends help my parts were the only cost.