Sagging door problems
I have a passenger door that hits striker. It does jump the door up about 1/2 inch and then closes to where all body lines up properly. Its very annoying.
I have tried lifting up on the door with it open, and it doesnt seem to have any wear in the hinge bushings. What should I do? The truck isnt a beauty queen BTW |
Re: Sagging door problems
How about some photos of this "isnt a beauty queen" :-)
Though I haven't any suggestions on sagging doors - I am just here to poke you for photos ;-) |
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pics of it as a shortbed, and before as a longbed. I pulled bed the next morning after driving it home.
I have no intentions to fix the paint. I clear coated the "scars" |
Re: Sagging door problems
poor old long bed :'(
Love the color and the truck!! She is a real beauty - better say nice things about here, she'll get you back for that comment LOL |
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Sounds like you need to adjust your door. It will involve loosening the hinge bolts that attach it to the front of the cab.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=546945 |
Re: Sagging door problems
Your hinges likely need rebuilt.
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Re: Sagging door problems
thanks for all the input !
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Re: Sagging door problems
Here is the best price I have found on pins and bushings.
This would be a good place to start fixing your issue. IMHO link:https://www.manestruckparts.com/stor...&Category_ID=7 :chevy: . |
Re: Sagging door problems
Sounds like the hinges to me. I tried to rebuild a set, but had a heck of a time trying to press out the old pin. One hinge popped out of the hydraulic press and nearly hit my brother's restored '69 Chevelle 396 SS with 72/72 Monaco/Hugger Orange paint.
Anyway, that was enough...I installed a new replacement hinge. |
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Pin and bushing kits can usually be found in the help section at the local parts stores...
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good tech info. thanks
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I rebuild C10 hinges all the time.
Because of the long internal fit they can be a bear to disassemble. Especially compared to the stamped steel pins from the cars. I have even had to drill them out. A hydraulic press can work some of the time. The trick is to know when to quit as you can bend the hinge ears before the pin moves. And getting them in the press in a stable position can be a challenge. If they don't come out with say 5T of force I heat them with the load on the press. Typically this gets 90% of them. As an alternative use a vice and lots of heat. As the factory bushings are plastic this will stink up the place as they melt. No way around it. Then I hit the pin with a 3 or 4 pound hammer. The lighter hammers tend to pein over the pins. If the pin still doesn't move you will have to drill out the center of the pin. They are not hardened and will drill fine. I don't drill out to the OD. A 1/4" hole typically works. This will relieve the pin fit. Only drill the ends of the pin. Grind off the head and do both sides if you have to. Then us a 1/4" punch in the center of the hole. You have will the bottom of the hole to hammer against. Use the same large hammer and heat if you have to. They all have come out using one of these methods. I recommend using the brass bushings. They last longer than the plastic. The new kits can be purchased with plastic, brass and steel bushing. Don't forget to add some grease to the bushings/fits so they don't wear as quickly and will come apart easily. The C10 hinges are over kill by modern standards, and rebuilt correctly, they and will last another lifetime in most cases. |
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Another common problem is on the area where the top hinge bolts to the door. Years of use and overextended doors and this area cracks around the hinge on the door and causes problems.
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Re: Sagging door problems
Good info! Sub'd!
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