Matching steering suspension parts
 

I bought a 68 C10 SWB, power steering and 6 lug drums. Then I bought a 71 C10 SWB frame with front disc and 5 lug rear end. I would like to change to 73-87 drop spindles.

I understand I would have to use 73-87 ball joints, which will fit in my 68 or 71 control arms I currently have.

I understand that I will have to use 73-87 outer tie rod ends.

Since the only center link I have is on the 68 truck, I understand I will have to use 65-70 inner tie rod ends.

Can I connect these tie rods?

Is there a simple solution for this particular arrangement?

Pitman arm and idler arm were same from 67-82 as best I can tell.

Re: Matching steering suspension parts
 

Well I found the answer to the tie rod mismatch. Seems I can get an adapter sleeve and move the 65-70 outer tie rod top the inner position to solve that dilemma.

Anyone see a problem with my logic on this?

Re: Matching steering suspension parts
 

You are correct!!!
This is a little known fact.
Most think the tie rod adapters fix everything.
The 63-70 inner tie rods are RH thread.
The 71-72 and 73-87 outer tie rods are ALSO RH thread.
You HAVE TO move a 63-70 outer tie rod (LH thread) to the INNER location.
This will allow adjustment to work with the 71-72 or 73-87 outer tie rods.
I found this out when I put 71-72 spindles on my '69.

The SIMPLE solution is to use 63-70 conversion spindles.
DIRECT bolt on.
Nothing to change.
No ball joint or tie rod change.
$229 almost everywhere.

Re: Matching steering suspension parts
 

Which parts would be cheaper to buy in general. 1968 parts (ball joints, tie rod ends) or 1973 parts?

Or is it all about the same?

Re: Matching steering suspension parts
 

About the same price. 73+ parts will be easier to find.

Re: Matching steering suspension parts
 

How's the truck coming along Neil? Any progress pics? Jim

Re: Matching steering suspension parts
 

I plan to post some update pics this weekend. Found a frame with 5 lug and front disc that I have stripped down ready to paint. Waiting on a c notch kit to come in to be installed and plan to flip the rear control arm brackets this weekend. Found the 68 frame had some minor damage after I removed the front clip also.

I am unsure about how to go about taking the cab off the frame. Is it better to remove the doors and glass first or does it matter?

Re: Matching steering suspension parts
 

With doors and glass and seats and tank removed 2 well built men can lift it. I'd use my engine hoist with a 4x4 through the cab. Put a Block at each end to butt against gutter to keep cab from sliding side to side. Long heavy I bolt through 4x4 at each end to attach lifting chains to hoist. Save your backs, especially if things hang up. Sorry to hear about old frame. I've had a 71 or 2 frame for awhile that I bought for parts, swb. Let's see the pics. Jim

Re: Matching steering suspension parts
 

Also hope to be in on Tuesday for a few weeks of work before Christmas, might drop by and see you at the office. U1 or U2. Jim

Re: Matching steering suspension parts
 

I'm a shift worker. Just started a 14 day break. Might work some OT on 12-15 and 12-16, however.

Will post some pics before weekend is over, hopefully. Currently finishing up a rewire on my chevelle, and wiring for me is a slow, painful, tedious process.

Re: Matching steering suspension parts
 

Me and my brother in-law just lifted the cab ourselves and carried it over the front of the frame. It really wasn't that heavy with everything removed

Re: Matching steering suspension parts
 

Seems like the consensus is to remove the doors and glass. I already have everything else removed.

Re: Matching steering suspension parts
 

Also, I work in chemistry, so both units.