Re: Restoring Rusty
I had the luxury of putting mine in with the vents out. I put the one roller in its track in the door then loosely bolted it in, ran the regulator all the way up out of the door and attached the glass. If you're going to leave the vents in, I think it was Old rusty C10 that posted recently that you can loosen the bottom of the tracks in the door and replace the glass without removing the vent assembly. I don't know if that works but I get to try it soon myself. I bent a regulator and get to replace it. The fun never ends.
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can't believe how long I dragged out this regulator replacement, but oh well, lets get you updated, so the replacement regulator showed up from Rock Auto took about a week, but there was a weekend in between
old and new pic |
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so decided to pop out the vent window and its easy to take it out once you know how, LOL
there are 6 fasteners, three philips screws on top, two regular screws behind the door card, and one long skinny screw holding the inside of the side mirror bracket to the outside doorskin from the inside (you'll find it) the guys video you shared above really helped, kudos to him |
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this pesky little welded in bracket is in perfect location to prevent you from being able to slide the window just enough forward while inside the door to get it on the track, thank you very much GM, you must have gotten that from that German conference on Difficultaism, ha ha
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ah yes Dorman aftermarket parts. buying Dorman parts is like buying a box of chocolates, you'll never know what you are going to get, these parts are junk, flimzy stuff, they won't last a year, let alone 40
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Ok, so finally did you get it done? well sort of, almost, about 99%
you see now my stock, original door crank won't go all the way on the aftermarket regulator, no I did not strip anything, no I did not butcher it, it goes on fine on my old regulators, yes both of them, both old cranks slide right on both old regulators, but neither one goes on this new replacement one, I wonder if they are rebuilt items or brand new ones, donno so to quote an astute colleague of ours, John: Quote:
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I had to go look and see what I did - don't grind on the regulator, grind on the window crank. Open up the hole a smidge all the way up to the threads but don't mess with them - it should fit at that point.
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Dorman window crank handle part#76912 9 bucks a piece
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so still trying to get a [ahem] handle on this thing, lol
as much as I appreciate John's advice on grinding out the old handle, for $6 bucks I decided to get a new one from the land of Dormania Can someone explain to me how in the world GM managed to leave one part alone, virtually unchanged from 1952 to 1996, see APPLICATIONS section in the pic below, did they not get the Make Unecessary Changes BiAnnualy Memo, did someone forget the TPS cover sheet |
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old and new window crank side by side, or top and bottom
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close ups of the old stock original OEM door crank handle thingie
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and the new handle complements of TAIWAN
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Greg this is nauseating is there a point here somewhere?
~ Patience must we have ~ OBD-One Kenobi so lets take a look at both of these cranks under our EyeCroScope notice the meatier wall around the hole opening on the old crank, that is good for strengthtability but no so good for insertability, but notice the larger hole opening on the new crank that slides right on the new regulator, but I doubt it will last as long in the second pic I try to show that the rataining clip goes on closer to the edge on the new handle (left) than on the old one (right) |
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WHATEVER MAN ~ did you get the new window handle on the new regulator or not?
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Glad you got a handle on it. Lol
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You and yourself sure do argue a lot. I think you two (one) need relationship counseling or something.
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I love your writing style. It reflects the way a lot of us actually go about our thought process! And now, how do the windows roll up and down?! Lol
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Did a bunch of cleaning and salvaging on some 68 cougar interior pieces.. (I know not a Chevy.. but have a 79 K10 I'm working on as well) Normally probably would have just had it recovered.. but you inspired me to make the old new again!
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On your window track seals, did you trim them around all the areas where the door support structure interferes with the strip?
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LETS DANCE
Note: I am using Bakerfields finest 805 lubricant, but any bottled goodness should work you may want to avoid the Lite viscosity |
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here are some before and after close ups, after the 60 grit treatment (wanted 80 but 60 is all Harbor Freight had to offer)
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remember the only people we is trying to impress is ourselves
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well yes like a dummy The Greg piles this JB Weld on too thick, but hey first time for everything
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we might could take another shot at these with more sand paper once its primered
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time to wipe... in a mad Dash to get it done before the sun goes down
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in the spirit of Run what you Brong' we primered the belly with some left over primer over rust stuff, until we ran out of product
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Looking good .
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the top got covered in some left over high temp engine primer, totally unnecessary but again that's what we had on hand, and I wasn't going to fork out any more $$$ (pronounced Duckets) on this "cheap" da$h board repair
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some touch ups required, but remember it aint got to be perfect I don't recon cause its going to get covered in textured paint which I hope will mask / hide some imperfections
Textured Paint Makes Me The Body Man I Ain't! |
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