Re: Restoring Rusty
1 Attachment(s)
and here is the driver side, again the bend right before the pipe goes over the rear axle
some day I will take out the grinder and re weld these spots, but not today, though my buddy Pontiac Mike says his pro muffler shop deliberately puts in drip holes in the state of the art exhaust systems they build for their customers to allow the condensation to drain, hmmm, am I on to something here by accident? |
Re: Restoring Rusty
Quote:
|
Re: Restoring Rusty
Quote:
|
Re: Restoring Rusty
If you can't hear a pfff, pfff, pfff noise from the holes, they're probably OK as is.
|
Re: Restoring Rusty
Quote:
|
Re: Restoring Rusty
5 Attachment(s)
so I've been driving myself crazy over the past few months trying to tune out a small Idle Issue I have, not sure it's quite a hunting idle, but here's what the problem is:
Either in park or in drive my RPMs go up 50 or down 50. So I should idle at 550 RPM in Park, well I can see it drop to like 490 or go up to like 590 I also see timing go from 19* where it should be down to 16* or as high as 25* I understand that the PCM adjusts the timing via the Idle Adaptive Spark Control aka Overspeed and Underspeed to pull the RPMs back to the desired Idle RPM, but I don't know what is causing the RPMs to be off in the first place. My MAF grams per second may very 5.1 to 5.2 (and the frequency goes from 2527 to 2510 for example) and timing goes 21* to 20* so is that it? is that enough of a change and what can be done to make the MAF less sporatic, is it time for a new MAF? My MAF is attached to the OEM air intake so it is the stock distance from the throttle body. I am using a cone air filter though i tried the OEM air box and stock air filter as well. Also I tried cleaning my MAF, I also tried a second MAF (same part number) I happen to have a spare and of course I re calibrated it, as it was reading up to 12% lean. I will probably post this in the LS Swap section as well for better chance of someone seeing it |
Re: Restoring Rusty
What are your O2 sensor readings doing?
Can you graph your Idle speed, MAF, O2, IAC, EGR, Timing and maybe fuel tank pressure along with fuel pressure, if you have those two available, in realtime and log them for playback with your diag package? |
Re: Restoring Rusty
just a quick update spoke to a few pro tuners / instructors, and this appears to be normal, here's a quote from Andre Simon of HP Academy
"Yes that's totally normal. The ignition timing is used to help control the idle speed and as such it will jump around significantly in order to control engine torque." |
Re: Restoring Rusty
Yours a fly by wire or cable pedal?
Friend did an LS in a c60 with 6 speed and it would stall randomly at lights and ended up having to relearn the pedal parameters |
Re: Restoring Rusty
Quote:
Engine \ Idle \ Airflow \ Effective Area Percent Max Percent Max - Brake 217 | Idle Tuning HP Tuners - GM/HP Tuners |
Re: Restoring Rusty
I have been gone for two years and when I come back to check in and BOOM you done went and done it.
As usual you jumped in with both feet, made a mess and then made it awesome. Rusty is looking great. |
Re: Restoring Rusty
Quote:
|
Re: Restoring Rusty - Front Brakes Rotors & Pads
4 Attachment(s)
looks like I finally get to replace the front brakes on Rusty for the first time
so learned they came in two flavors light duty and heavy duty, I thought I had the heavy duty ones but judging by the bearing part numbers I don't think I do the original rotors had a nice rubber seal on the inner bearing the new replacement ones don't - shocking! new pads don't come with the inner pad clip that you snap into the single piston to help you hold the pad in place, and one of my old ones broke so that installation was fun, as a third hand would sure have come in handy, lol |
Re: Restoring Rusty
I'm not a fan of the AutoZone or National Chinese bearings. Eastern Europe is just as good as USA made and I'd take Japan, Korea, and Taiwan sourced bearings over those made in mainland China or India. FAG and some SKF bearings are still made outside of China and India... and some Timken taper bearings are still made in the USA or they are old stock.
I just bought six Timken SET6 bearing sets for the tine shafts on three Troy Bilt Horse I tillers and one Horse III tiller that I'm rebuilding along with ten Timken SET2 for the main shafts and eight sets of FAG 6201 bearings etched Poland. The Timken bearings are all etched USA and they cost around $8 each. The parts guy at AutoZone couldn't find the proper grease seal? It's a separate part. The GM part number for the grease seal on the 1974 GMC RWD front brakes should be 3857731 if the GM parts books are to be believed. AC Delco lists 290269 for LD front brake rotor grease seal. That doesn't cross to the GM part number in the 73-78 parts books... It's possible I looked it up incorrectly but it lists 73-78 CP- 2,3, M.H.C and CP-1 on page 943 of the parts book. |
Re: Restoring Rusty - Rear Bumper Removal
1 Attachment(s)
Quote:
|
Re: Restoring Rusty
Quote:
|
Re: Restoring Rusty
Wow!! After a full month, I finally reached the end of this thread. I sure hope that this isn't the end by any means. I enjoyed reading and learning all about you and Rusty's mischievous adventures. This is top notch material. Thank you and please carry on. The world is a better place with you and Rusty in it.
|
Re: Restoring Rusty
Quote:
1. replace the Intellitronix digital gauges with AutoMeter Sport Comp IIs (the cheapo Intellitronix digital speedo and tach just wigg out for some reason when my turn signals or headlights are on, intermittently [pronounced: hardest to troubleshoot] however the fuel, oil, water, and volts gauges work just fine, all gauges use the same common ground and same common 12v key on, strange!Oh, yeah, I almost forgot, here's what's been keeping my knuckles bruised the last few months: A '54 named Busty |
Re: Restoring Rusty
Oh, I'm already on page 4 of that thread. The Quarantine has affected many, but I still go to work and come home like always. I am really liking Busty as well, but Rusty has a special place in my heart. I love old cars and trucks and I definitely love learning and then doing. You provide so much motivation. Thank you.
|
Re: Restoring Rusty
Quote:
this should cure your insomnia or prevent you from getting it, ha ha |
Re: Restoring Rusty
1 Attachment(s)
Quote:
I bought a vinyl seat cover from LMC and had a local shop install it for $150. Makes the interior look like new (except for the door panels). |
Re: Restoring Rusty
Quote:
|
Re: Restoring Rusty
1 Attachment(s)
These are 2-5/8" Sport Comp gauges in a 55 Chevy car I used to have. My 82 truck's are 2-1/16" that are also mounted below the dash. I went with the smaller size because someday I'd like to mount them and two more gauges in place of the idiot lights.
I see where mine are "air core" type, whereas the Sport Comp IIs use a stepper motor. Here's an informative article on gauge types. http://newvintageusallc.mybigcommerc...tor+gauge+work |
Re: Restoring Rusty
1 Attachment(s)
Just shot this photo of my truck's gauges, and just had to brag on my cell phone holder and USB charger.;)
|
Re: Restoring Rusty
Quote:
The problem I have with AutoMeter is that they give you 90% of what you want with any of their product lines, like for example you love the black face and the white lettering but then they give you stupid red needles, or you love the gauge but it don't come with a black bazel but silver and sure they'll custom paint it for you for $25 bucks per gauge, I know that for a fact cause I called them and we had words, hee hee appreciate the link, yeah I still don't get all the stepper motor and different gauge technology I think I need take an AutoMeter night class at the local junior college or online |
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:24 PM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 1997-2022 67-72chevytrucks.com