Rocker Replacement Question
 

Need some advice/info.

I'm replacing parts of my floor, along with inner and outer rockers with the cab supports aswell.

The dilema is, we cannot find if there is a piece that goes for the door seal seam, on the outer rocker it seems you could just bend the piece over and youd have the seam, but inspection of the other sides original pieces, it seems theres a piece that the door seem folds over.

So is there a piece that goes behind the outer rocker that joins with the door seam? Or do we just fold that part of the rocker over? I've looked for hours and found nothing.

1970 C10.

Re: Rocker Replacement Question
 

Maybe some pictures of when I did mine would help. I replaced the outer rocker panel and the floor pan behind it.
http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/f...psnafojnoj.jpg
http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/f...psvxbskhun.jpg
http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/f...psldeoempz.jpg
http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/f...ps8ek8ekr3.jpg

Re: Rocker Replacement Question
 

The top of the rocker[outer] is what the rubber hooks on to . It forms a "halfpinch weld" for the rubber to slip on. Just brace up the floor to roof before you start taking all that stuff loose. I started unbolting the screws in the rear portion of the inner rocker to B- pillar and heard a big groan and saw the back of the cab drop down. I raised it back where it was and then tightened the bolts back then braced it up and didn't have the problem again. I just took a small piece of square tube and fit it to the floor and the upper pinch weld of the back glass and then welded it in with a couple tacks that can be cut out easily.

Re: Rocker Replacement Question
 

One thing I did, was to use a "Card Board Template" of the door opening, before I cut anything....the credit for this actually goes to Vic Cook and Scott Duckworth, they had done this on Vic's project truck. Scott had a pristine cab that was almost rust free, he took a couple pieces of tri-wall card board and glued them together, then fit it to the inside of the cab against the door opening, traced around the pinch weld and that's all that's needed.
before I started cutting on my floor/rockers/cab corners, etc... I braced everything side to side, front to back, up and down, to ensure nothing moved out of place while all the panels were being removed. I was told by a friend that you basically, start on the inside and work your way outwards with regards to sheet metal replacement. my rear cab supports were so badly rusted, that there wasn't anything to weld the replacement cab mounts to... I ended up buying the entire rear cab support assembly. In hind sight, I'd probably had been better off replacing the entire floor pan, I would have got all the cab supports/braces and inner rockers in one solid piece, sure would have saved me a ton of grinding on all of the those welds too.
If you have access to a portable soda blaster, the one thing I found that was neat about using baking soda, was that as you blasted away the paint, the "Burn marks" (spot welds) show up clear as day, making it so much easier to find the spot welds then having to sand/strip the paint away to find them...make sure you read everything about using baking soda before you start doing any paint work though, because if you don't get rid of the residue from the baking soda, it will cause problems with your paint later! They make products that will remove the residue from the soda......

And probably the single most important piece of advice I can give, make sure you have your doors on before starting the rocker panels, or you'll regret it later, trust me.....this is the only way to ensure you have the correct gaps.
Once you have "mocked" up your rockers, use the door template to gauge how your panels line up.....this sure helped me tons.....:metal:

Ben

:metal: