C NOTCHED.. now what to do about rerarend travel when I go down ?
 

What do you guys with the big notches use to keep the rearend centered when you drop it all the way down ? I have a 12" notch with 13" lift bags and I still have my unused ECE supertrack bar and using trailing arms.. What would work the best ? WISHBONE ?? I haven't got to try any of this out yet.. Thanks

Where are you planning on putting the bags? On the trailing arms that would give you an assload of lift...maybe too much for a panhard bar...also you may run into troubles pulling your driveshaft out of the trans or seperating a two piece. If you are thinking of a wishbone, it may have to have a sliding joint in it so it doesn't bind...

where is a good place to put the bags ? if u have a trailing arm set up?

I am putting them on top of the rearend (BRIDGE) I will post some progress pics later today (TUES.) My buddy who helped do this said a wishbone would most likely be the key but he said guys with bagged trucks had another kind of LOCATER and he couldn't think of the name/style. thanks guys !

We built the notch pretty heavy duty as this will be my tow pig !

Check out this watts set-up....http://totallypolished.com/frames.shtml

Here is the TP Watts link on a mid 60's GM truck (with trailing arms)...says it's from an upcoming article in Classic Trucks

http://totallypolished.com/watts/IMG_7245.JPG

Love the kit...too bad the damn thing is $500...too bad they don't offer something for those of us who don't need the "bling" of billet aluminum...

I did a wishbone with a sliding center member. Mounted the wish bone with one mount on the rearend and the two mounts by the front trailing arms. No side to side movement!

Just curious why you'd want 13" of lift??

yea you can do a watts link or a diagonal link like in a pro link setup. in other words take one end and connect it to the axle and go diagonaly across to the front and connect the other end of the link to say where the trailing arms mount. so it would go from driver side to passenger side.

can someone slap a pic of the wishbone setup up? i think the watts setup is cool also but i can't see shelling out 500 smackers for it. i'd love to have the dimensions for the watts setup (anybody got any) as i have machining background and access to all the shop tools that i'd need. i bet i could build that thing for less than 100 bucks and most of that cost would be in the bearings and heim joints. i've done a web search and got hits but no technical data on how to set one up. seems they are used mostly on rustangs, mazdas, sprint cars, and midget racers. that tp video is pretty nice. anyone?

The wishbone if using our stock trailing arms needs to have some custom parts built for it. I have had them built for my shop truck and my truck. You have a few options. The most expensive part is getting some of the parts machined. Y

You mount the one end on the rearend. You need to make a bracket to mount it there unless you have a 9inch. It goes directly in the center of your rearend. Then the two other mounts are going to be place relitivly close to your front trailing arm mounts....we mounted our to the crossmember/and frame. The machine part is we had to make a slide peice that goes in the one end on the rearend. Since these 2 links arc it needs to slide so there is no bind. This part need to be heat treated and the bushing you use on the heim joint is a bronze peice that oils itself.
I will try and take pics of what we have to do this and shed some insight.

I just got off the phone with Totally Polished and they seem really nice. The guy was really helpfull. Man that is sweet. Thats going on my blazer for sure.

Totally Polished is great. Local shop for me (they are only 10 minutes away) Thier work is awsome, I have seen it first hand.

thanks fastbagged68, i'll look for it.

creating a watt's link should be easy. it's all based on simple geometry.

the link or dimond shaped part is just 3 holes evenly spaced across it. they look to be about 4-5 inches apart. as for the rest, the link must be centered on the rearend in both the virtical and horizontal position and the bars that connect the frame and the link must be equal in length. since the spot in which your likely to mount the bars is around 26.5 inches you will want the bars to be aproxemently 13.25 inches center to center of the heim joints.

hope this helps,
ondrew

p.s. if i was in your area i would come build it with you.

We've built many different types of these wishbone track locators on all sorts of vehicles and all of them have held up very well.
78,000 miles on one particular truck here in town and no problems!
If you have a cheep tube notcher they are very easy to build.

pics of my truck
 

The rear clip isn't done yet... It doesn't look as nice as the other rear frame shots. It will sit lower but I need to make some rear fenderwells so the tires wont hit and trim the front cups some. I had to take my fatties off the back until I get the wishbone. What do you think ? I had to make the pics small to work on here.

thanks for the pics 7T7, i'm working on a watts link setup, i think i can do it for under 60 bucks now after checking some bearing and heim prices.

If you do a wishbone on a factory 2 link you need to flip the oppsite of what these pics are showing. You need to form a triangle to keep the side movement minimal.

i've already started on a watts link setup: see watts link post for more info.

Looks Good camaro_thunder.When You are done,paint it nice,and pinstripe around the iron cross.

Check this site out its sort of a watts link but more inexpensive and more travel i think: http://www.ifcustom.com/projects/pro.../a-d/chris.htm