Dash lights
I have been doing a search for dash lights, but can't seem to find an answer. I have a 69 C/10 I sent my dash bezel out to one of the board members along with what was suppose to be an NOS 6 cycling tack. He rebuilt it with new bezel, added an electric clock, new curcuit board, added tack, new light bulbs, cleaned everything and sent it back. I have a rebuilt original tilt column, just put truck back together. Have parking lights, head lights, parking lights, interior light works with light switch as it should. The dimmer switch also works. I don't have any dash lights, not one and the 4 way flashers do not work. I have quite a few grounds including I ran one from center post of tach which didn't help. I believe the tack and lights maybe a separate issue. everything is so tightly packed in there it is hard to work on. My main question is does anyone thing it might be the light switch? Amp gauge is working, I ran a ground wire for the clock, with a hot wire to fuse panel. Any suggestions before I tear this thing all apart?
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Re: Dash lights
Might be a miss-match between the new circuit board and your old cluster connector. Did the rebuilder include a pin out diagram for the new circuit board?
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Re: Dash lights
Not sure about the earlier trucks, but the 73-87s had different circuit boards and cluster connector pin outs depending on things like idiot lights vs gauges, options, etc.
Four way flashers often use a separate blinker unit then the normal turn signals. |
Re: Dash lights
Did you possibly dim the dash lights all the way down when removing the headlight switch knob?
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Have you checked my Faqs thread on the top of the electrical forum home page?
There is a thread there on dash troubles. |
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I replaced the fuse panel for my 63 with the factory replacement offered by M&H Electric Fabricators, Inc. http://wiringharness.com/
It fit great and made everything that wasn't working work again. In the at least 5 years it's been in the truck, I've only had one issue with it. My cab leaks and apparently some water got behind the fuse panel, made its way between a rubber insulator around a wire, and corroded that connector. Replaced connector and all was well again |
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I am not a fan of our old gauge clusters. Original or OEM "restored" have issues. When working perfectly the gauges are never bright in my humble opinion. Some have painted parts of the tins and swapped to LEDs (can't dim in most cases). And nothing has made me think they are even adequate.
Some of the grounds are done with the screws that go through the printed circuit. You will see a copper washer in the printed circuit where the screw goes through. Check all the screws even the ones just holding some assembly together. I have found many to be loose and or stripped. Tighten or use a slightly larger screw if the holes are stripped. Careful everything is thin metal. Next is the sockets that hold the bulb. Sometimes you have to twist them back and forth to get a good connection. Sometimes you have to bend the tabs a little so it makes better contact with the printed circuit. I still can't get my high beam indicator to work all the time. There is a ground that goes from the connector that plugs into the cluster to a clip that connects to the bottom of the opening for the cluster. Those get taken off and not reinstalled and can be loose. Good luck, it can be frustrating. If you can read a wiring diagram (there are color copies on this forum) you can bench test and get all the lights working. |
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