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Re: Restoring Rusty
Thanks for the entertainment Gregski!
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Re: Restoring Rusty - SPOTCHECK Magnaflux
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SPOTCHECK Magnaflux Step 1.
spray the cleaner (Blue Label) on a rag (not directly on part) and wipe the part clean I think we can handle that... (we'll use paper towels, but shhhh don't tell) |
Re: Restoring Rusty
Nice upgrade there Greg.
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Re: Restoring Rusty
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SPOTCHECK Magnaflux Step 2.
spray the red dye Penetrant (Red Label) on the part, allow to dry (I kid you not) from 1 to 30 minutes thank you Mr. Salesguy for putting some stupid irrelevent label right over the name of the product on the cans that i have to painstakingly peal off for you all to see what can is what, Nice! got it... |
Re: Restoring Rusty
Waiting...
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Re: Restoring Rusty
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Re: Restoring Rusty
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SPOTCHECK Magnaflux Step 3.
Step 3 is basically repeat Step 1. spray the cleaner (Blue Label) on a rag (not directly on part) and wipe the part clean we did it before, so we can do it again |
Re: Restoring Rusty
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SPOTCHECK Magnaflux Step 4.
spray the developer (Yellow Label) on the part this white stuff should dry in 10 minutes and I guess we are supposed to look for red spots / marks resemblin' cracks |
Re: Restoring Rusty
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Waiting... some more
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Re: Restoring Rusty
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OK, honestly I don't know what the heck just happened, I think the red stuff never really dried even after waiting 30 minutes, and I think I could have done a more better job of wiping it off before shooting the white stuff, here is what it looked like after the white stuff did dry
I'll let you draw your own conclusions but I think this process may be worthy of a Mulligan |
Re: Restoring Rusty
I see lots of cracks like a plumber
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Re: Restoring Rusty
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Цветные пенетранты Magnaflux серии Spotcheck |
Re: Restoring Rusty
GOOD NEWS / BAD NEWS
Fellas you may wanna pull up a chair for this because I am about to drop some knowledge on you... ha ha that you may find useful and that could save you some moneys |
Re: Restoring Rusty
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GOOD NEWS - The new replacement driver side Vortec head appears to be good, no cracks!
BAD NEWS - The passenger side Vortec head that I thought was good actually has three cracks in it. But get this, this is where it gets interesting. I did not find those cracks because of the Magnaflux product but despite of it. I was cleaning all the white powder off, getting ready to retest using the Magnaflux stuff, when I stumbled upon a tool that helped me find the cracks, check it out. Best part is I got this tool from Harbor Freight for FREE, as you might recognize it! The three cracks are: 1. between the #2 exhaust and intake seats 2. at almost 1:00 o'clock in the #4 exhaust seat 3. right after 11:00 o'clock in the #6 exhaust seat |
Re: Restoring Rusty
So just use some brake cleaner and paper towels to wipe the seats off real good, then get a flashlight and get really close to the head and especially while it is still wet from the solvent you will see the cracks, no Magnaflux needed. If I had to do it again I would not waste my money on it.
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Re: Restoring Rusty
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the other thing I learned is how to use this Magnaflux stuff, basically the secret is to spray it on just a tiny bit, just dust it
I also learned that the red dye does NOT dry, EVER, trust me I tried everything, leaving it be for a couple hours, even helping it out with the wifes hair dryer but that's OK, allow it to soak in for about 30 minutes then wipe it off real good, then just dust with the Developer one or two quick squirts per chamber is all that's needed |
Re: Restoring Rusty
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OK, so now that I knew this head had cracks in it, I gave the SPOTCHECKER another shot to see if it will find them, and it did, but again because I used a fraction of the product this time than the time before, and that's important
See? The same three cracks are now highlighted in red |
Re: Restoring Rusty
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well I got so good at finding cracks I decided to re-examine that first driver side Vortec cylinder head to see if now I could use my Eagle Eye to spot any more cracks, again just with that flashlight (FREE flashlight that is) and sure as _________ I did, I found a total of three cracks, check it out I covered each one with a thin strip of green tape
Cracks are in: 1. Between #1 intake and exhaust seats 2. at 1:00 o'clock in #5 exhaust seat 3. Between #7 intake and exhaust seats |
Re: Restoring Rusty
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WHAT A DAY, What a Day! Lets end it on a positive note. More parts are here:
Of course we open the big box first. So from JEGS (better prices than Simmit I have found) and FREE shipping, we got: Hydraulic flat tappet Camshaft GM Performance part number 24502476 for $108.99 Lift: .435" intake, .465" exhaust Duration: 212* intake, 222* exhaust @.050" tappet lift Centerline: 109* ATDC intake, 116* BTDC exhaust Lobe Separation: 112* Fel-Pro Vortec Intake Manifold Gasket set part number 1255 for $22.99 GM Performance Head Gaskets part number 10105117 for $37.98 and a new even sided Thermostat Housing GM part number 10108470 for $3.99 optional, but I don't like that stock lopsided deformed one with one long bolt and one short one, yes the alternator is getting relocated, midmounted |
Re: Restoring Rusty
Geesh! That's something!
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Your experience with the heads is exactly why I haven't bothered upgrading for. You spent how much money now on used heads to find out they are junk?
Sometimes you have to spend money the right way to avoid headaches and if that means buying heads from a shop ready to go then so be it. I see it as you now have spent $300? Between two heads and the test material? That is on head brand new. |
Re: Restoring Rusty
Interesting. I didn't know the vortec heads were so crack-prone.
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Re: Restoring Rusty
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