Re: Restoring Rusty
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one thing I did not bother mentioning is that my beloved new Summit digital oil pressure gauge stopped working after only 2 weeks of service, we was too busy chasing engine noises remember
anywho, how do you test this puppy, well it still turns on and shows 00 so the ground is good, and the power is good, and I even re wired it to the sending unit, so what gives? so lets test the sending unit, apparently you can use your MultiMeter set on the sound wave symbol sign thingie, continuity they call it, well all that means is do you have a connection, or is it broken you start off by tapping the two leads of the meter together and you should get a reading of 0 and the thing should beep or buzz, than you connect it to your sending unit, it don't matter which end goes where, there is no polarity, you connect one end to the housing (housing usually is ground) and the other lead to the connection tip, and in our case we get no buzz and a reading of 236(ish) that be bad |
Re: Restoring Rusty
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as a side note, what's wrong with this picture?
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and as always we compare the new part to the old part, here is a reading of my old oil pressure sending unit, this is what it looks like when it works
however I can't use this one with the new gauge because they are calibrated differently just pretend you hear a beep when you look at the pics, ha ha |
Re: Restoring Rusty
Be careful
GM oil pressure gauge senders are 0Ω=0PSI and 90Ω=max PSI. Autometer, like the 1.5" gauge on my ATV, uses senders where 235Ω=0PSI and 0Ω=max PSI. Not sure who makes the Summit gauges but it appears they may be Autometer units or clones. The way to be sure is to test the Ohmage with the sender installed and the engine running or with the sender installed on a pressure source. It's a pressure transducer that converts pressure into resistance... There's no rule that says you can't screw the sender into a female thread Milton air hose disconnect fitting and attach it to your compressor hose, with the air hose regulator dialed down to between 30 & 60PSI or so, and observe what the ohmage does. |
Re: Restoring Rusty
Told ya that exhaust would drone like mad lol. Welcome to a cab of nothing but sheer metal and no insulation.
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Re: Restoring Rusty - DynoMAX Mufflers
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http://www.spintechmufflers.com/muff...30.html?page=2 |
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finally gettin' around to installing that used rear slider glass winder
this seal does seem like good quality |
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I can't tell where it was made as it only says MADE IN TH
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some before pics of the old rear glass, in case we need to refer to them for installation later
note the little wrinkle in the last pic in the upper right hand corner of the winder |
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and a couple shots from the inside, sorry the lighting is terrible shooting against the sun
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and the old single piece nothing wrong with rear glass is out
my son helped me catch it on the outside, I had him sit in the bed of the truck and assist, thank you son The Russian Judge rated his enthusiasm as a 2.5 (out of 10, LOL) I on the other hand would have cut skul to stay home and work on an old beater truck with my grandpa pa |
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Run it down as low as you can and slowly dial it up to the max on your oil gauge while you watch the resistance. If it changes fairly smoothly in the correct direction the sender is not the issue. |
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and the other side
yes there is a bit of rust action in there but we expected that, that's why this 2 hour winder replacement job is going to take us 2 weekends, lol (using our MWCJTZ - Married With Children & A Job Time Zone) I am going to wire wheel the loose rust off than acid wash it like we always do, than paint over rust primer, and than paint to match, easy peasy |
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only tool needed to get the rear glass out is a box cutter, you will need to sacrifice the old seal, but hey its 40 years old it is crusty and hard as a rock, be careful not to loose a digit - remember Safety Third!
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new(er) glass at the ready
not sure what that funky baking soda like corrosion at the base of it was, but nothing my trusty putty knife couldn't scrape off this piece could use some black paint, but it may not if we is going for that patina look, ha ha, (that's lazy talk for aint gonna paint it) did I mention our trucks come with built in work benches, take that you sissy Camerotalogists and Novaskosians Eye Luv me Truck!!! do you love yours? |
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I didn't like all the rattling and other noise the slider allowed even when closed.
Swapped a solid one back in. And weed wacker string will make an excellent way to rope in the new one |
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daughters are too much, got the color right and everything (and green is hard to match, lol)
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How can this be? How can the truck run super awesome and me have no oil pressure, yet I see oil dripping down the valve springs when I remove the rocker covers? |
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alright how hard can this be, we use some dish soap and water to apply lubrication and a slideability factor and we slip the rubber seal on the glass first
yes the wife was out of the house... ha ha |
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then using some cave man tools and with the help of my boy, I could not have done it without him, we had the thing in, in about 30 minutes
again we used some dish soap / in a windex spray bottle for lubrication I kinda like the patina look of it, fits the truck, if it was all painted and shiny it would stick out like a soar thumb, yes that's what the lazy Greg tells himself for not painting this slider out of the car, ha ha |
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now back to real matters at hand, that 0 oil pressure issue
so I did a little test, where I hook up a clear hose to the oil pressure fitting and stick the other end in a 2 liter soda bottle and start the car, and by the time I get out of the cab to check on it, it puked a 1/4 of a quart of oil, so we know the volcano is a pumpin' |
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it took about 4 different unions, joins, and fittings to get my trusty ol' mechanical oil pressure gauge hooked back up, I kid you not, but I did it
I guess the original metal oil line comes with what appears like 1/8th coarse thread male fittings, and the new stuff is 1/4 fine thread I think anywho, the analog / mechanical gauge works |
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Thats good news..
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Assuming you know the resistance the gauge is expecting... A decade box between the gauge sender wire and a ground will tell you whether the gauge is working properly.
They range in price from this DIY electronics solder kit...https://www.sparkfun.com/products/13006 to one of my antique General Radio 1432M and 1432B decade boxes that I keep on my electronics bench with my analog scope and other antique test gear. You can build one of Ray's two potentiometer gauge testers but the parts, at Radio Shack, will run more than that Sparkfun decade box kit. My WAG, a few posts back, on the resistance range might or might not be correct. |
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decided to give my brain a rest from all the troubleshooting and build a rack for our kayak to take camping for July 4th
the vertical bars are upside down legs from my green metal patio table |
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then it was time for primer
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since I do not own a spark machine I had to use bolts to hold things together, no big deal
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these clear socks should keep her from wiggling around too much, it's actually a very nice tight fit
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pool noodles and zip ties to finish it off nicely
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and the rear rail
hey I think it turned out alright, cheap, simple, IT'S A TRUCK !!! |
Re: Restoring Rusty - Door Weatherstripping
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and here's what's coming up next
technically '74 did not have the weather strip on the doors but on the cab only, so I think this was an [ahem] upgrade of sorts |
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well nothing to it but to do it, well get it off technically
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I seriously used a metal puddy knife and a rubber mallet to chip this stuff off
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the inside strip on the cab came off super easy but left a hefty rubber cement like bead on the sheet metal for me to scrape off
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either Brenda was having a bad Friday afternoon when she mounted the passenger door on Rusty back in '74 on the assembly line or we have some hinge issues
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