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I used 1/2 inch pex recommended from another site. 3/4 may cover the pin better I have a gap around the pin, but I haven't had a problem with it.
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and I am still trying to wrap my mind around those square holes in the hinges are they supposed to give us some manuverability in door alignment, I tried pushing the door all the way outward from the cab and didn't know what the hewk that did, than I did the opposite and pulled the door in tight inward towards the cab in those square holes and again had no idea what that did, LOL how risky is it to remove the hinges from the cab and start all over from scratch, would removing the front fender be the proper way to align these doors, if my grandpa was a car guy I'm sure that's how he would have taught me to do it, start from the B pillar aka an imovable object and work my way forward to the front of the truck |
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$70 bucks for two bolts |
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Those strikers you are looking at from Classic Parts are Stainless and are show grade pieces
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Mine was cracked on the door side also. Welded it with a crackerbox and small rod. Would have been better with a decent welder (machine and operator) Not pretty since I hadn't welded in a few years, but passable with a little grinding and paint.
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I learned to weld using Oxy MAPP. TIG is still the easiest of the electric welding methods for me.
I have a real tough time stick welding sheet metal. You can get a pretty decent new 110v Lincoln or Miller MIG new for under $400. They aren't good for anything but sheet metal work but they are real nice for that. If you can find one... the small 21A 220v Lincoln SP-175 Plus is a very nice machine. I bought one about 10 or 15 years ago for around $380. The only difference between the SP175+ and the 175T is the 175T has 5 preset heat ranges and the 175+ has continuously variable heat. They cost within $15 of eachother when they were being sold new. You will not find another MIG in that class with that feature. I used the common old Hubbell NEMA L6-30 Twist Loc plug with 10ga THHN wire in EMT conduit rather than an outlet for the NEMA 6-50R dryer plug that it shipped with. 50A is a bit of overkill for a device that draws 21A worst case... Now it's value added to have at least one NEMA 14-50 outlet in the garage for electric cars. My value added is that I can run my TIG on it. LOL |
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so my 12 year old front tire decided to separate on our way camping luckily right before the last exit with a tire shop in the middle of the forest mind you, yes we was in the right lane as we was loaded up with a bed full of gear and a kayak strapped up top
the tire never really blew just went totally bald, so we limped along for about a mile so bought two Bridgestone Wranglers (since that's all they had in our size aka 235/75 15" rims) for the front so now all four corners are new though the fronts don't match the backs the only casualty was the inner fender which got totally caught in the spinning tire and mangled, time to hammer it out and re paint it again Thanks to the nice guys at Sierra Nevada Tire & Wheel shop for hooking me and my son up, and allowing us to make it out to the camp site in time for dinner, ha ha |
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made it there, nothing was going to stop us, lake was full so were the beer coolers
Truck Camping is Still the Best!!! last pic: Camping Manual |
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Good lord. 12 years is twice what you're supposed to get out of tires. Those are just plain dangerous.
Gad you didn't have a more exciting incident. |
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hopefully those Trendsetters don't set the trend for the future.
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looks pretty sweet love the old gmcs :gmc2:
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I know it aint much but I am happy to report my new speedo finally hit 1,000 miles
anyone whos built or rebuilt an engine knows racking up the miles is a good thing |
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Cool, if you've made it this far you are good to go.
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Recently posted Rusty's Second Dyno Test results in a thread of its own, please check it out.
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more parts showed up
- Davis Unified Ignition, DUI Cross-Fire H.E.I. distributor cap and rotor (this allows you to run the even 2-4-6-8 plug wires on the passenger side and the odd ones 1-3-5-7 on the driver side and eliminates the crossing over) - New oil pressure sending unit - New digital volt meter gauge (honestly just added that to the Summit order to put me over $99 bucks to get free shipping, ha ha) |
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Well gosh darn it, tested the resistance of the new oil pressure sending unit and it tested same as the old one, popped it in, and the gauge still don't work, it still reads 00 Can the gauge be broken if it reads 00, I mean it's on so it is getting power and a good ground |
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just testing / playing with the new Summit digital volt meter gauge
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man I aint too impressed with this there CrossFire distributor cap, seems like all they done did was soldered some wire inside the cap to re route the contact points (except #1 and #4) and covered it up with black goop, ha ha
now don't get me wrong we paid moneyz for this contraption so yes we will give it a go see fer rerself fellers and truck ladies |
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so lets compare the standard OEM GM HEI distributor cap (on the left) to the DUY CrossFire one (on the right)
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and a peak underneath
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ok so first we need to transfer the coil from the OEM dizzy to the DUI CrossFire
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worth mentioning that I noticed the stock OEM distributor cap had the center hole bevled out a bit, seemed like an after the fact modification, where as the DUI CrossFire cap did not - I decided to leave the new one be, and try it the way it is
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and just to be thorough and since the new cap came with a new rotor, we decided to swap those as well
white - old blue - new |
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At least it's shiny black goop!
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one day I asked our main mechanic what was his favorite bike to work on, and he looked me straight in the face and said "STOCK, anything stock, cause if I don't know it I can look it up in the book" so right you is Mike, right you is |
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got some new MSD(ish) spark plug wires
SF Street Fire (so gotta be good, ha ha) An MSD Brand (what in the world does that mean) USA MADE (not made in the USA mind you, but USA Made, I'm sure there's a difference) spiral wound, silicone sleeve, all the right words |
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So what was in the box Homes?
a bunch of wires and a bunch of rubber booties and a crimper tool that you use in your vice (now that's awesome, and the big reason I chose these) |
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ok lets get this stuff sorted and try to make some sense out of it all
it appears there is two kinds of rubber booties, I recon the slim ones be for an HEI style dizzy and the fatter ones seem to fit my old points distributor not sure if the silver tips go with the skinny boots and the gold with the fat ones I just laid them out that way, though one fat bootie wire did have a gold tip already installed in it the bottom boot is a bit different then the rest and is for the Coil |
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I did not see the wire sizes on the box so I laid them out in matching pairs and measured them for us
2 x 55" 2 x 48" 2 x 41" 2 x 31" 1 x coil wire |
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alright so we put our Big Boy Pants on and gonna build us our first set of custom spark plug wires, here we go...
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after we measure the right length (ie 26 1/2 inches for #1 and #2 wires) we cut the wire to length and strip about 1/2 inch off (hence the extra 1/2 in the total length) using their super duper crimping tool which has a side for stripping wire, I just used my box cutter knife
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we used Vaseline to slip the boot on about 5" back before crimping the end on
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It helps if you use needle nose pliers to bend the metal clip ends in a little bit to help the crimper before you shove it in the vice
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there, not bad for the first one
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and one down and seven to go...
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