Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

#3 was good

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# 4 was good too

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You definitely has some garbage going around in there. It likely the mains look the same now. How does the rod journal look on the crank?

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Agreed. Looks like you got some leavins from honing the cylinders or just plain dirt in there. If you're darn lucky it just contaminated the lube holes between the mains and rod journals and the lube oil washed it into the rod bearings.

What does the #1-2 rod journal look like? For that matter 3-4, 5-6, & 7-8 too...

I've done rod and even main bearings in-frame but if I had to get into the cylinders with a hone and-or ridge reamer the block got pulled so I could wash out all of the leftover crud with Kerosene and DAWN. The tiny pieces of stone and cast iron gets airborne and goes everywhere. You can't keep it out of the important parts.

The metal and carborundum dust is same reason nobody uses their good lathe for toolpost grinding you use the cheap one that had a rough life instead.

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Well let me show you how the other half lives

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When you were honing the cylinders you seemed to be pretty careful with the deflector thingy you had.

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# 5 was ok

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# 6 was ok

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# 8 was ok

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but since we was pot committed and because I am a complitionist by nature I bought three new standard size bearings and replaced #1, #2, and #7

I torqued them down to 45 foot pounds in two stages this time, first to 30 foot pounds then to 45 foot pounds (by the way my new China made Craftsman torque wrench is a piece of complete garbage, the plastic handle jams and feels flimzy, I hate that tool)

also this time I did not grease the back sides of the bearings and allowed the juicy special sauce on the crank to self lube the fronts

well another 9 hour day spent working on the truck, at least I can't say I didn't have the time to work on it

finally my day culminated with a start up, rev up to 3000 RPM for 1 minute, a 10 minute warm up, then a nice 50 mile drive, streets and finally highway

no noises yet, but we will see what happens after a couple heat cycles, ie start and drive the truck, then let it sit there cool off, then start and drive it again

last time it lasted 100 miles, lets see if we can beat that, LOL

but I do see a roller block in the near future, Rusty get ready for a transplant!

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Yes I even wrapped the crank in plastic garbage bags

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The water could be explained by any number of things. Leaky head gasket, intake manifold gasket, crack in the block or when you removed the heads it got into the motor. It seems quite possible some remnants from the hone job could have caused that bearing failure though. Did you lubricate the hone at all? It seems like if it was lubed it might run down the inside of the block and get all over. If it was dry then stone and iron dust would get air born and go all over. Hopefully you have it straightened out now.

FYI
Last time I pulled my heads I used a 1/4" house with a large tapered tip from my might vac kit to stick in the head bolt hole at the rear of the engine and syphoned the water jacket down, worked great, didn't get a drop of water in the cylinders.

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Double post.

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I would have liked to seen some side by sides of your old bearing vs new. IMO none of those look very good for only 100 miles.

Also, gotta imagine if its tearing the rod bearings up, whats it doing to the cam and mains.

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Ok greg... the suspense is killing me is Rusty alive? ��

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Ha ha I love it, thank you for asking, Rusty and I have piled on over 200 additional miles since we replaced the three ugly new rod bearings, The Greg is trying to go one whole week without wrenchin' on his truck, remember its running with the stock exhaust manifolds and the LMC Truck 2 1/4 pipe dual exhaust with some type of chambered mufflers, but we got plans for the weekend

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Good morning you'all thank you all for following along, the plan for this rainy morning is to weld in some O2 (Oxygen) sensor bungs into the LMC Truck dual exhaust and see what the Air Fuel Ratios look like (AFR)

this will serve as a baseline for tuning the carb before we put our dreaded Hooker competition long tube headers back on

and I got another exhaust surprise for you all

so here we go

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so rather than taking the perfectly good non leaking exhaust manifolds off I decided to weld in some O2 sensors and weld up these LMC Truck exhaust pipes cause it don't even sound half bad, so lets see how it breathes

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X marks the spot

the passenger side first...

this Harbor Freight step drill bit aint half bad

it ain't pretty but it will hold

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and passenger side all weldered up and ready to go on

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and on to the driver side, rinse, lather, repeat

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and driver side all weldered up and ready to go on

keep in mind this is the LMC Truck 2 1/4 exhaust system that normally would go over the axle and out the back, but not on this bad boy, we just turn it down out right quick after the mufflers

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So after allowing the truck to warm up and taking it down my test circuit here are the AFR numbers

Idle: 11/12 (that is too rich but easily adjusted with the two idle mixture screws)

WOT: 13/11 (this is what drives me crazy why are these not even? I thought we fixed the bad rings on the cylinders)

Cruise: 16/15 (So a bit lean)

and it backfires and chokes on acceleration in 2nd gear, so some carb tuning is in order

however when I blimp the throttle it revs up nice and even, no hesitation or spit and spatter there, so the accelerator pump seems dialed in

still running the 63/67 jet combos, may try 64/69

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How does it sound? Any droning?
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Great question, sounds good, like a baby 60's muscle car, ha ha

Comparison: not as loud as the Flowmaster Series 40 mufflers but louder than the Magnaflows

Yes there is a little bit of drone at idle for me thats at 750 RPM but even above 1000 RPM its very smooth

Silent at speed on a highway

For the money this LMC Truck dual exhaust is a very good choice for a do it yourselfer, easy install, Mike did a great job building it 40 plus years ago

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good to hear rusty is still going

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OK, finally got around to doing exactly that. This allowed me to set the Initial Advance Timing to 12° instead of the 10° that I had, and I must say the truck runs much much better now, it now has some gitty up again

Note To Self: some day do a study of timing advance and the correlation to truck gitty up

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So more of Truck Doing Truck Things, picked up ALL this hot rolled steel at S&K Steel today for only $10 bucks (unlike the home improvement stores those prices I can live with - I'm looking at you Home Depot)

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so believe it or not we got enuff raw material here (ha ha) for not one but two projects

first we will build ourselves a Pipe Weldermatic Jig, so instead of clamping pipes to our patio table with C clamps and welding crooked exhaust we will jig them up in the angle iron on top of the two sliding plates to allow for weld beed rotation as such and we should end up with less crooked exhaust

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Alright, time for a mathematical word problem, (remember those from sixth grade math)

Here we go, Greg drove his green truck to S&K Steel to buy 5 pieces of steel. He used 3 pieces for his welding jig project. He still has another project to do. What color is Greg's truck? ha ha

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Sunset orange. Aka rusty 😉

I get what the angle iron is for but what are the two pieces of flat stock used for with the welding jig?
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Re: Restoring Rusty
 

I am guessing it is for the weld so the pipe can lay flat.

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Ahh, I see. Makes perfect sense now. Thanks.

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some exhaust pipes have a flange on them allowing you to slide one pipe inside the other, the flat stock is to raise the pipe enough so that it still stays aligned with the other pipe

I may have not made it obvious with just the two long pieces until today I realized the vertical wall will need spacer too, so I divided them by 2

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

yep, the spacers allow for full 360° rotation of the pipe whilst welding, so the bead doesn't touch the wall and make things crooked

note the offset spacers to the right, in other words they ain't in the middle of the angle iron, that's to allow for the pipe to be welded to the muffler

Re: Restoring Rusty