Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Dang G. Thanks for being our tester. Can't wait to get the point where you are.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Looks great dude.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Door panels turned out good!

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Door panels turned out great, going to have to try that on mine.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

well you all know I'm not the type to sit still so although our local weather forecast called for four days straight of rain, it is nice and sunny and dry as a bone today, just goes to prove that our local meteorologists can tell us with absolutely certainty what the weather was like yesterday

so after dropping 5 gallons of gas in the tank and going for a joy ride, the wrenches were calling to me... so I went after the kick panels

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

i figured getting the passenger side out would be easier than the driver side, but I had no idea the driver side would be impossible, if any of youz have any special tips or tricks, please share, as I am getting real close to busting out the fire wrench on this piece

pics of the passenger side removed, this side looks saveable (this side is also what LMC Truck sells) I have have not seen the replacement for the driver side

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Hmmmm....

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

What's giving you trouble on the drivers side?

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

parking brake pedal is in the way to get more of an angle on the panel to pull it out, but I don't want to turn a simple job into a big one and take the parking brake mechanism apart if I don't have to

the panel is wiggled loose but feels like it's still stuck on something in the large hole

unlike the passenger side where you can take out the glove box and see what you are doing the driver side feels like I'm building a ship in a bottle, very restricted access

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

well said, I'm going to pound a few beers and think on it over night

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Hey Greg, glad to see more progress. I haven't had my driver's side vent out, but to me, it looks like the e-brake pedal has to move. Now, I have had the pedal out, and it's not too hard. The cable clips in, but you may have to relax the adjuster nuts underneath to get enough slack in the cable. I do know you can get a replacement pedal pad from LMC.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

This build is pretty cool! Ive rarely read through every post in a build but i did on yours! Keep it up man!

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Oh boy, better watch what I say, seriously though thank you very much, I try to be entertaining but always like to share something that may be useful to another truck owner, I know I've benefited a ton from this forum, lots of very helpful folks on here

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Took power napping to a whole new level today, needless to say it was a rainy day, sometimes you just need a day off, time to catch up on Wheeler Dealers show, ta da

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

What's a power nap? Lol. I just fall asleep.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

anyone's who's ever bolted an aftermarket part to their truck or two, knows that sometimes it starts a domino effect where if you replace this you have to replace that, then you have to replace that

well, my Rochester Quadrajet had an internal fuel filter, my Holley does not, our trucks, at least mine do not come stock with an inline fuel filter either, you can see where I am going with this, I wasn't too comfy running it without a filter so I rented a flare tool kit from AZ and decided to put my big boy pants on and remove the pipe fitting off my hard line and put a nice DOUBLE flare on it so I could fit an inline fuel filter

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

let me add to that, that I have no idea, absolutely no idea why the person at AutoZone asked me what vehicle, year, make and model I needed to rent the flare kit for

also I had to purchase the pipe cutting tool as it is omitted from the tool kit, yet there is a snug little place where one may have fitted at one time

so let me walk you through my first flaring experience

first I could not even use the cut off tool I paid good moneys for (at least for the initial cut) because the darn thing would not fit on the pipe with the pipe nut / fitting on there, so I had to use a hack saw

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

ok, you know how poor craftsmen always blame their tools, well let me just say this was the worst tool I ever rented, hee hee

first we want to have a word with the person on YouTube who recommends we lube up the tube with some lubricant, yes that is a fantastic idea if you want it sliding down and out of the tool instead of having a flare put in it

also needless to say everyone always demos a straight pipe that they flare, well in the real world this thing is a snake, I'm just saying

the tool feels like it is made out of pot metal, the tube at 40 years old is no longer round but an octahedron

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

so I go to put the first bubble in it with the 3/8th adapter, the thing you are supposed to tighten slides off on one side, the tube hits me in my head, but I press on (a little pun there for ya)

I keep going I take the adapter thingie out and squeeze the tube just with the press thingie and end up with the ugliest half double flare you have ever seen, so ugly I will not be showing you any pictures, we will just collectively say

"IT'S A TRUCK !!!"

and move on to the before and after photos

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

It looks good. It takes time to learn to do flares and so on. Bending pipe is a "see it before you get there kind of thing."

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Greg, sorry you had so much trouble with the flares. I think your solution will work fine. About the fuel line size, either will work, especially on the pressure side of the pump.

For contrast, I connect fuel filters (for carbs) upstream of the pump, on the suction side. My thinking is that if it ever leaks, it'll suck air and not leak fuel, which might lead to the engine stalling. A leak on the pressure side of the pump could be bad (although really, the pressure is really low).

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

I'd switch it all to 3/8,going down to 5/16.sounds like it would restrict the flow.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

I see. My truck's an '85 with AC so I didn't have the vent to deal with on the drivers side. Looking at your pic I agree with greg64 that the e-brake pedal will probably have to be moved out of the way.

Also forgot to mention in my last post, nice progress on your build.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

My thoughts exactly, but why does the carb come with the 5/16th fitting, and why do they only offer it in the 5/16th on their website? Just things that make you go hmmmm?

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Thank you I really enjoy working on this truck. I hope you all do too.

Re: Restoring Rusty - Air Cleaner
 

I think I forgot to ask, and be honest with me, does this Caddy air cleaner look stupid on this small block. Its the one LMC truck has though I bought it for half price on eBay, I didn't expect it to be the size of an actual UFO. It may be at home on a big block but it sure takes up a lot of real estate under the hood.

The dilemma is this, if I keep it my buddies tease me that I would have to rename the truck from Rusty to either Darth Vader or Marvin the Martian, and I aint too keen on doing so.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

I don't think it looks bad Greg. I do think a classic 14x4 air cleaner would look better. That's just my personal opinion.

It appears in the photo of your fuel line that there is a slight kink before entering the carb inlet.

You may can get a 3/8 banjo fitting for that holley so you can run 3/8 all the way

I usually put my inline filter on the suction side of pump.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

I like the air cleaner ,old style all the way.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Dang, you are good, I see that too, yes it bothers me.

I could not see one on the Holley website, nor at AutoZone, O'Reilly's, or Pep Boys, if you find one can you shoot me a link, please?

I would love to do that, great idea, it would cut out about a foot of plumbing, but does that mean I need to swap my bowl for a opposite side inlet / passenger side one?

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Yeah, if she only was a few inches smaller. I did mention earlier on in the thread that LMC now offers a narrower one but taller, but then they probably want a million dollars for it.

So I am leaning towards this Mr. Gasket Flat BLACK one - seen em fer $25 on eBay filter included, maybe a gray or a black filter would be wicket too

thank you all for reading and commenting, appreciate the input

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

After seeing the difference, I would never run without induction pre-heat if I was ever going to drive in the cold. The engine really wants to see 90-100 degree inlet air. In Sac you may get away with it.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Ditch the Caddy air cleaner. Looks great on a 50's custom, and Caddys, but that's about it. As always, great progress!

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

I like the 14in air cleaner you posted better than the Caddy one personally.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

You can send me the Caddy air cleaner and I'll put it to good use for ya.....hehehehe. I like'em personally but sometimes they work and they don't. I do kinda like it.....Though a 14 incher would look better probably...grrr.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

not a fan of the caddy one, but hey to each his own

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

I think this banjo fitting will work on your Holley and it has a 3/8" hose connection.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aed-5427

As I was saying earlier, you could put the filter right before the fuel pump.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

I prefer the flat black open air filter. Keep up the great work, I really enjoy this thread.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Updates, UpDaTeS, updates ...

thank you all for reading

Re: Restoring Rusty - Bungee
 

first I want to show off this Polish Engineering custom 32" door opener, this is how you roll if your door hinge spring broke, see earlier posts

I am using a red bungee but I am sure other colors may work as well, please color coordinate accordingly, LOL

I have a dream: that some day I will have a long flat drive way, hee hee