Re: Restoring Rusty
 

and here is the driver side, again the bend right before the pipe goes over the rear axle

some day I will take out the grinder and re weld these spots, but not today, though my buddy Pontiac Mike says his pro muffler shop deliberately puts in drip holes in the state of the art exhaust systems they build for their customers to allow the condensation to drain, hmmm, am I on to something here by accident?

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

If it's just a pinhole I'd leave it so the condensation will continue to drain out instead of rotting out the pipe

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

I started doing just that on muffler shop aluminized set-ups. I would drill a super small hole just to allow condensation somewhere to drain.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

If you can't hear a pfff, pfff, pfff noise from the holes, they're probably OK as is.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

thanks

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

What are your O2 sensor readings doing?
Can you graph your Idle speed, MAF, O2, IAC, EGR, Timing and maybe fuel tank pressure along with fuel pressure, if you have those two available, in realtime and log them for playback with your diag package?

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

just a quick update spoke to a few pro tuners / instructors, and this appears to be normal, here's a quote from Andre Simon of HP Academy

"Yes that's totally normal. The ignition timing is used to help control the idle speed and as such it will jump around significantly in order to control engine torque."

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Yours a fly by wire or cable pedal?

Friend did an LS in a c60 with 6 speed and it would stall randomly at lights and ended up having to relearn the pedal parameters

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Mine is a cable throttle body, less complex. I've heard of the condition you are describing on drive by wire applications, see Andre from HP Academy explain how to address it here using the

Engine \ Idle \ Airflow \ Effective Area

Percent Max
Percent Max - Brake

217 | Idle Tuning HP Tuners - GM/HP Tuners

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

I have been gone for two years and when I come back to check in and BOOM you done went and done it.

As usual you jumped in with both feet, made a mess and then made it awesome. Rusty is looking great.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Thank you, welcome back to the circus act, and that's what you git for leaving!

Re: Restoring Rusty - Front Brakes Rotors & Pads
 

looks like I finally get to replace the front brakes on Rusty for the first time

so learned they came in two flavors light duty and heavy duty, I thought I had the heavy duty ones but judging by the bearing part numbers I don't think I do

the original rotors had a nice rubber seal on the inner bearing the new replacement ones don't - shocking!

new pads don't come with the inner pad clip that you snap into the single piston to help you hold the pad in place, and one of my old ones broke so that installation was fun, as a third hand would sure have come in handy, lol

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

I'm not a fan of the AutoZone or National Chinese bearings. Eastern Europe is just as good as USA made and I'd take Japan, Korea, and Taiwan sourced bearings over those made in mainland China or India. FAG and some SKF bearings are still made outside of China and India... and some Timken taper bearings are still made in the USA or they are old stock.
I just bought six Timken SET6 bearing sets for the tine shafts on three Troy Bilt Horse I tillers and one Horse III tiller that I'm rebuilding along with ten Timken SET2 for the main shafts and eight sets of FAG 6201 bearings etched Poland. The Timken bearings are all etched USA and they cost around $8 each.

The parts guy at AutoZone couldn't find the proper grease seal? It's a separate part.

The GM part number for the grease seal on the 1974 GMC RWD front brakes should be 3857731 if the GM parts books are to be believed.
AC Delco lists 290269 for LD front brake rotor grease seal. That doesn't cross to the GM part number in the 73-78 parts books... It's possible I looked it up incorrectly but it lists 73-78 CP- 2,3, M.H.C and CP-1 on page 943 of the parts book.

Re: Restoring Rusty - Rear Bumper Removal
 

Only bumper I have seen that matches mine!

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

This cracked me up and I'd appreciate it if you would send me that list. We get to endure plenty of those days here although not as many as some folks. The replies regarding leaving condensation drains in your exhaust pipes makes good sense to me. When you see a car puffing out vapor and then pulling away from the light with water running out the pipes like a garden hose you start thinking that it would be good to have a blowhole at the low point.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Wow!! After a full month, I finally reached the end of this thread. I sure hope that this isn't the end by any means. I enjoyed reading and learning all about you and Rusty's mischievous adventures. This is top notch material. Thank you and please carry on. The world is a better place with you and Rusty in it.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Ah Mate, that totally made my day! Thank you so much for leaving such a kind note. [so all it took was a World Wide Quarantine, copy that!] and here I was considering selling it (and parlaying the money into a car for my kids), here is a short list of things coming up for Rusty.

1. replace the Intellitronix digital gauges with AutoMeter Sport Comp IIs (the cheapo Intellitronix digital speedo and tach just wigg out for some reason when my turn signals or headlights are on, intermittently [pronounced: hardest to troubleshoot] however the fuel, oil, water, and volts gauges work just fine, all gauges use the same common ground and same common 12v key on, strange!

2. get the OEM bench seat reupholstered professionally using the new foam I stock piled over the years and replace the Dodge Dakota bucket seats I have in there now

Oh, yeah, I almost forgot, here's what's been keeping my knuckles bruised the last few months: A '54 named Busty

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Oh, I'm already on page 4 of that thread. The Quarantine has affected many, but I still go to work and come home like always. I am really liking Busty as well, but Rusty has a special place in my heart. I love old cars and trucks and I definitely love learning and then doing. You provide so much motivation. Thank you.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

... hmmm, you don't say: INNOVATE DLG1 Wideband O2 Oxygen Sensor Tuning Diagnostics Logging Air Fuel Ratio etc

this should cure your insomnia or prevent you from getting it, ha ha

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

I have used the regular Sport Comp gauges on 3 vehicles over the years, and really like them. You do get what you pay for.

I bought a vinyl seat cover from LMC and had a local shop install it for $150. Makes the interior look like new (except for the door panels).

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Thanks Mike, I love that clean look of your cab! Do you have a photograph of your AutoMeter gauges in this square?

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

These are 2-5/8" Sport Comp gauges in a 55 Chevy car I used to have. My 82 truck's are 2-1/16" that are also mounted below the dash. I went with the smaller size because someday I'd like to mount them and two more gauges in place of the idiot lights.

I see where mine are "air core" type, whereas the Sport Comp IIs use a stepper motor. Here's an informative article on gauge types.
http://newvintageusallc.mybigcommerc...tor+gauge+work

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Just shot this photo of my truck's gauges, and just had to brag on my cell phone holder and USB charger.;)

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Thanks Mike, I love that stick thang poking out of the floor, (yeah you try to show me the gauges and me the idiot is staring at all the other stuff in that cabin, ha ha) and yeah I learned all about the little gauges and how they come in the smaller size ie the 2 1/6th like my current Intellitronix which are a tad too small for our Squarebodies, and then the slightly bigger 2 5/8th like my new AutoMeter (pronounced: Expensive) ha ha ones

The problem I have with AutoMeter is that they give you 90% of what you want with any of their product lines, like for example you love the black face and the white lettering but then they give you stupid red needles, or you love the gauge but it don't come with a black bazel but silver and sure they'll custom paint it for you for $25 bucks per gauge, I know that for a fact cause I called them and we had words, hee hee

appreciate the link, yeah I still don't get all the stepper motor and different gauge technology I think I need take an AutoMeter night class at the local junior college or online