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i liked how it looked all raw and shinny so I got this bright idea that I would just clear it and see how it holds up, I had some Dupli-Color Engine Enamel paint left over, so why the heck now, right?
what do you guys think, in terms of lookability and durability? |
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I would highly suggest that you reconsider that. Unless you plan to lap the valves in, getting valves to seal again once they are removed is a very large c*** shoot. Even lapping valves in you will have problems. After running, the valves have mirror image to the seat. They do not spin they just move up and down, open and closed. You are opening a big can of worms on this. I have seen this attempted numerous times by customers. One valve you may get lucky but 16, you will be chasing your tail.
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I cleaned the Timing Cover next, then I realized it has some sort of built in rubber seal, well obviously but can only that seal be replaced or did I just waste my time making this cover shinny and now I have to get a new one
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decided to straighten out a few dents with some precision tools
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the timing cover seal is easy to replace but make sure you support it properly to not warp it
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If you're re-using the harmonic balancer you can get a "lip relocator" type seal so the lip isn't riding in the 42 year old groove in on the balancer snout. The other option is a Speedi Sleeve to cover the groove on the balancer snout. |
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10212810 - Intake (Valve Stem Seal Type: Umbrella, Valve Stem Diameter 0.344 in., Valve Guide Diameter (in): 0.500 in.) 12564852 - Exhaust (Specs unknown) |
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decided to remove the rockers, didn't realiaze there was that spacer washer thingie under the nut
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You are planning on putting new rocker arms in right? LOL. I wouldn't resuse any of those especially if they have that deep of groves.
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Make sure you check the Valve guides for play while you have the heads off and everything off them. It would have been a good idea to keep each valve in the same space it came off of. not sure if you did that or not..
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lets take a closer look at each of the valve guide pairs and studs
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and now lets take a look at the chambers and study the valve seats
that looks great to me |
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I started cleaning the valves next, and the face on the # 2 Exhaust Valve one looks pitted, its the first one I cleaned
now since this is a Budget DIY Adventure, I am entertaining the following two options, just lap them and see how much better they get, or buy new exhaust valves and lap them in also going to disassemble my old heads and see how bad those exhaust valves were/are, after all that engine ran, so question is how bad can the exhaust valves be and still move the truck, and plus I learn by comparison so it will be a fun stare and compare exercise Wow replacement GM Exhaust Valves part number 12550909 are $17 bucks a pop, EXPENSIVE! some before after cleaning pics |
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then it was time to clean the # 2 Intake Valve and check it out, it looks better than the exhaust one
heck speaking of comparing valves, it wouldn't hurt to buy new ones and compare these to new ones, what a novel idea, ha ha Wow replacement GM Intake Valves part number 10241743 are $16 bucks a pop, EXPENSIVE! couple before and after cleaning pics |
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so 2 valves cleaned, 14 to go, I hope to knock them out tomorrow if for no other reason to be able to inspect them closer
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pitting is fine it's the valve seat you need to be concerned about.
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Now is a good time to modify the heads for more lift, and run 1.6 rockers.
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