C20 Spring Removal
Next week I'm doing a disc brake upgrade and although I don't need to, I want to remove the front springs to clean and paint everything. Does anyone know if just releasing the lower ball joint and letting the lower control arm down pivoting on the rear bushings will allow the stock spring to be removed or does the lower control arm have to be removed?
Thanks in advance |
Re: C20 Spring Removal
Yes. You can disconnect the lower ball joint & let the lower a-arm down to remove the spring. You do not need a spring compressor as the truck springs don't "grow" like a car spring does. Of course you need to disconnect the shock & sway bar.
George |
Re: C20 Spring Removal
That's how I got mine out. You should put a chain through the spring just to be safe when using that method.
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Re: C20 Spring Removal
Does anybody have this procedure in pictures?
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Re: C20 Spring Removal
I use my 3.5t floor jack and let it down slow. Re-installing make sure the top of the spring is in the pocket correctly
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Re: C20 Spring Removal
Perfect, Thanks for the confirmation on doing this. I will use a chain thru the spring as safety measure
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Re: C20 Spring Removal
When I swapped out the front coil springs on my 68 C20 I was unable to get the outer end of the control arm to swing out of the pocket in the backer plate for the brake drum after releasing the lower ball joint. I had to remove the lower control arm from the frame side.
I had read many discussions on this and I was left thinking that the newer trucks maybe had a different set up for the backing plate. I did not figure out a year cut off though. |
Re: C20 Spring Removal
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Here is a photo showing the end of the control arm not coming out of the backing plate
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Re: C20 Spring Removal
If I ran into the problem that Northern describes I would Remove the backing plate before the lower control arm.
George |
Re: C20 Spring Removal
I won't run into that problem as I'm removing the entire spindle and discarding. Now if I could only get the lower ball joint to break loose.
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Re: C20 Spring Removal
You can use a jack and a ratchet strap (around the top control arm 'CA' down to the jack) to compress the spring. The ratchet strap is to control the reaction. I have two sets of spring compressors here and neither would fit the c20 springs.
If you have to hit the ball joint stud, be mindful of mushrooming the stud because you might not be able to get it through the spindle. There are some pics on my build page but when you loosen the lower balljoint from the spindle, the lower CA will literally hang freely, straight down. Be prepared because between the weight of the lower CA and the spring forcing it down, if you don't retain the CA/spring it will slam down and send the spring off. While you are going to the trouble of cleaning/painting etc, you really should replace the CA bushings. |
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I'm no expert, but a floor jack supporting the A arm, and IMO as a novice, secure the spring so it can't come at you. Only takes a few minutes to secure one, chain or something. |
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You could use a pickle fork . Either manuel or one that you could use in a Air hammer Attachment 2147250 |
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Re: C20 Spring Removal
I usually have good luck removing the spindle from the ball joints by un-threading the ball joints until the castle nut is flush with the top of ball joint end, hit the spindle in the ball joint area with a big hammer a couple of times and the spindle will separate without the need for a pickle fork
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Re: C20 Spring Removal
Pickle fork is the only thing that worked. Only took a minute. Struggle with it prior forever. LCA bushings shot on one side replacing both sides
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I am hoping it is true, that is, cause I have a C20 and a C10 that need new springs. |
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George |
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Re: C20 Spring Removal
You really need the weight of the engine to be able to replace the front springs.
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Now I just waiting for parts. I'm replacing lower control arm bushings as one side had a lot of play. Other side good, but replacing while I have everything apart. Hopefully tomorrow I can start putting suspension back together with new spindles, brakes etc. Then I need to work on M/C, proportioning valve, booster and plumbing the hydraulic lines. I have new respect for people that work on suspensions, especially older vehicles.
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