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gringoloco · 04-25-2011, 09:47 PM

Once I had them where I wanted them, I cut through both pieces at the butt-joint to make a nice even gap for welding- and started the slow process of spot-welding them together, allowing lots of time between for cooling to prevent warpage...

Got a little excited towards the end and finish ground and primed without grabbing the camera. Also welded up the stake pocket hole while I was at it. She's ready for a skim coat of filler and will be good-to-go

04-25-2011, 09:47 PM	#191
gringoloco A guy with a truck Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Germany, for now Posts: 5,920	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 Once I had them where I wanted them, I cut through both pieces at the butt-joint to make a nice even gap for welding- and started the slow process of spot-welding them together, allowing lots of time between for cooling to prevent warpage... Got a little excited towards the end and finish ground and primed without grabbing the camera. Also welded up the stake pocket hole while I was at it. She's ready for a skim coat of filler and will be good-to-go Attached Images __________________ -Chris Instagram _elgringoloco_ '70 Short-Wide How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 ‘70 Blazer ConversionHow To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd '72 Highlander How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5 (SOLD) '72 Blazer 2WD How to: Ruin a perfectly good Blazer (SOLD) '05 Yukon Daily Driven (not so stock) Yukon (SOLD) ‘07 Yukon Denali (daily) Members met list: SCOTI, darkhorse970, 67cheby, 67cheby'sGirl, klmore, porterbuilt, n2billet, Fastrucken, classicchev, Col Clank, GSFMECH, HuggerCST, Spray-Bomb, BACKYARD88, 5150, fine69, fatbass, smbrouss70, 65StreetCruiser, GAc10boy Last edited by gringoloco; 04-25-2011 at 09:48 PM.