Quote:
Originally Posted by Greywolf200
Hi Rob, back to the camber gain question. I was thinking that a full width 1" front crossmember section would bring the A arms closer together increasing the camber gain similar to the Shelby/Guldstand mods except that the lower arm would be raised rather the lowering the upper arm. To make this work, you'd need 1" lowering springs and combined with dropped spindles, you'd get 3.5" drop with improved geometry? Even though you're using 1" dropped springs, you'd still have normal suspension travel? The dropped springs re-establish the relationship of the LCA to the spring pocket. Would ball joint bind be a problem in normal operation (no frame laying or anything like that)?
While we're looking at this, do the tie rods need to be in a straight line from spindle to spindle to have proper steering geometry? That doesn't happen in the stock design and is one of the things you were trying to correct with the R&P set-up?
Inguiring minds want to know.....lol. I am going to figure out how to modify my C10 suspension before next spring and don't want to do it twice.
Thanks, the article in ST didn't give you near enough credit.
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This is an interesting deal. my first thought is you may need a little more drop from the spring. Try to get the lwer ball joint even, or just slightly above the center of the lower A-arm pivit. One thing to remember is to keep the roll center in a reasonable range. I'd shoot for 3" to 4". Ball joint bind will not be a problem. I have been thinking about crossmember mods lately, so, here's a thought. Nock the upper A-arm mounts off the crossmember, and move them back 1", then re-attach. when you re-install the crossmember, align the holes through the side of the rails first. This will move the crossmember forward 1", and with it, the lower A-arm. The wheel will be centered, and the caster will be appx 7 deg. You can weld, or re-drill the holes through the bottom of the rail. As for steering, you'd have to raise, or bend, the pitman arm and idler arm up 1", OR, fab a center link with the inner tie rod mount holes up 1" (look at Ride Tech's new True Turn kit), OR, go with a rack set up that indexes off of the crossmember/lower arm mounts. (ours would work fine.) This has me thinking, i may plug in the numbers and see what the computer says.