Quote:
Originally Posted by special-K
This is the best way to do it. I've seen some just use bondo and call that a restoration. You can imagine how that will (I should say won't) hold up. You can buy PC-7 for a lot less than that Eastwood kit and it's probably exactly what they are giving you. Eastwood basically sells re-labled products you can buy elsewhere for less. I have wondered about using material from another wheel to "weld" the cracks,then epoxy,then bondo if necessary. The issue here is separation. I've been successful at welding like plastics with a soldering gun before. One jib was a water tank in the camper on my old '71. The plastic back then was parafin-based and no adhesive will work. I cut about 1/4" off the neck,and used that the weld the crack where the neck went into the tank (all molded in one piece). The hand pump has to be able to pressurize the tank to work...and it did,for many years after.
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You're absolutely right in all of this. I believe I'll grab some pictures of the store that sells this product for cheaper as well. But maybe when I have more time. I also thought of this as well to take pieces from my other wheel but seeing as it was in MUCH worse condition. I did notice that the cracks I did full weren't themselves affected just simply the surface where I either sanded too low to where it cracked the paint or that the surface was not prepped correctly from the beginning as it would pull right off. I'll be sure to keep this round much cleaner. Also decided to prime and paint with actual automotive paint this time.
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