[FirstOwner69]

Originally Posted by greywurm

Since the distributer was upgraded to HEI, I decided to compare shorty's FAQ on the conversion to how it was done on my truck. Appears to be ok, except shortly after his tutorial, there is a post talking about a white resistance wire that is split to two yellow wires, one for the starter and one for the dist. I checked mine, but its spliced from a tan wire that runs to the firewall, then inside the cab, its pink. I think its the pink wire to the ignition. Since it's a soldered splice, I am thinking its factory... is there a way to tell if the wire is resistance, or am I going down a useless road

I'm guessing that tan wire may be a resistance wire. Does it appear that the tan wire could actually be discolored white?

I converted my 350 to HEI. I read of 2 different ways to deal with the wiring. The easiest way is to run a 12 gauge wire from the distributor through an existing firewall grommet to the ignition unfused terminal on the fuse block. The other (and the one I used) was to replace the resistor wire to the under hood firewall bulkhead connector with a 12 gauge wire and abandon the wire that ran to the coil. I wanted it to appear factory. The 70s and 80s trucks were set up this way, and I used a pink wire and terminal from one of those trucks. Some folks added a fuse to the wire. Others did not. I did not.

Has your engine been converted to an electric choke? If so, as I recall, it should also be wired to ignition unfused. If it's wired to always on 12 volt, I'd think you'd have a constant power drain.

I have some links to several threads describing the conversion if you want to see them. Here's one of the better ones. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=148346 AND, post 13 in this one shows the resistance wire. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=536317

Also, if you order the harness from a vendor, it may be for a points distributor, so you may need to convert.

Somebody please correct me if I got this wrong on any of the above!