Quote:
Originally Posted by FirstOwner69
The 350/330 HP Deluxe is what I have in my 69 C20. I think you'll like it. I've only put about 250 miles on mine So, to some extent the jury is still out.
Read mechanicalman's post #69 carefully as he's pretty much covered everything I learned. It addition, the engine comes with a long water pump and a 153 tooth flexplate. You'll need to replace the pump with a short pump if you are running original pulleys. You may need to replace the flexplate with a 168 tooth version depending on your starter. If you want to run an original temperature sensor in the original location in the head (most folks have had problems getting one that reads properly), forum member brian mac machines the originals to 3/8" NPT. Here's a link with some discussion on this topic and his contact info http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=627880. If you have factory A/C, in addition to the bypass mechanicalman mentioned, you will need to fabricate some brackets/braces to properly tie the top compressor to the intake/engine. I have pictures showing what I did and a pattern for one of the brackets if you need them. All other accessories should bolt right on.
Incidentally, my engine came with a 670 CFM carb, not the 600 mentioned by Summit. There have been at least 4 different part numbers for this engine package. The earlier ones had the 600 and many sellers never updated the description as it evolved. If you want to run a steel fuel line from the pump to the carb, I can look in my file for info of what I found that worked with very minor tweaking. I THINK it was one designed for the 1968 Camaro Z28.
I also have a phone number for a performance hotline that is staffed by very knowledgeable people if you need it. |
Doh! Forgot about the a/c compressor bracket. So, did you make a bracket that bolts to the 2 passenger side intake bolts, using longer intake bolts, that has an ear sticking up for the adjuster arm?
What about the front a/c bracket on the passenger side head? I assume it needs a hole drilled to match the different pattern on the Vortec head?
After reading the link about turning down the temp sensor to 3/8 NPT, I'm wondering if the 3/8" temp sensor I recommended will work? It's made to GM spec, but have they changed the resistance spec over the years? It would seem the one for the idiot light would have to work but a possible problem on the gauge sensor.
Probably best to turn the known good sensor down to the proper size and re-thread, as long as it does not machine through to the innards of the sensor. Or if the old sensor will screw into the intake manifold, I've done that before and it gives a good sample of the temp.