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Originally Posted by Captainfab

When you tack in your supports, you want to position them so that you can still install the doors to check your fitment and gaps.

Thanks Capt, Now I need to shop for angle iron or something to use as supports.

Originally Posted by dracko

I used the cut to fit method on the passenger side and it went "ok"... On the drivers side I would cut out the rusted section to the point where the patch panel overlaps the old metal about 2 inches, then clamp securely and used a few self tapping screws through both layers, then cut both layers at once. I couldn't believe how much easier, faster and better this method is. Even if your cut isn't perfectly straight, it's fine because both sides of the cut match.

Get the extra thin cut off wheels and ya end up with a perfect mig gap.

Thanks Dracko for the tip on this method, definitely be trying that out!

Originally Posted by MP&C

For order of assembly, I would think it easier to cover any final fitment defects under a piece of carpet than in the door/fender/rocker gaps. So MY preference is to start from the outside and work your way in. Start with the lower A/B pillars and outer rocker panel, mocking up the parts to form a "door frame". Just like building a house, the door frame gets squared up before worrying about the other details. So mock up/clamp these outer parts, hang the door and adjust the door gaps, and start tacking all these parts once you're happy with the fitment. After all, the gaps around the door are likely the most scrutinized, much less than what's under the floor covering. Get these outside VISIBLE parts as perfect as possible, any other variances in panel fitment (floors, inner rocker, etc) can be hidden. Once your "door frame" is welded, then move on to the inner rockers, braces, floors.
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Much appreciated as always Robert for the input!!

Originally Posted by Brad54

Without seeing the back side and underside of the rockers, I'm not sure I'd fully replace them. There's a couple small holes in the face of it, below the door. I'd poke that with a screwdriver and see how much of that metal is good... if most of it is, I think I'd just patch the face of it.

-Brad

Brad I havent poked with the screwdriver yet but here are some underneath shots. I would think to replace a good bit of it right?

Originally Posted by Alan's Classic

How I braced mine

Thanks for the pic Alan, seems like I recalled from an earlier post Id seen from you somewhere. Is that bracing stuff you get at home depot or Lowes?