Quote:
Originally Posted by Foot Stomper
First off, you don't need to remove all the old paint unless it's failing to stick. Tightly adhered coatings make for great substrate. Same goes for body filler and primer. If it's a good sound coating, no need to take it off. Taking it all off exposes it to flash rust and you likely don't want (or like) that. Epoxy primer is the ONLY thing to put on bare steel.
Now if it's rusting off, then you need to get to bare clean steel. This can be done several ways including blasting, grinding and chemical strippers. - Blasting is by far the most effective but is also the most expensive
- Grinding with too coarse of an abrasive will cause deep grinding grooves. Too high speed can cause the metal to warp.
- Chemical strippers are effective but very noxious and some require water to rinse which immediately causes rust
Rust that exists in the pitted metal is not a problem as long as you put an epoxy primer on it.
Post some pictures... we like pictures!
Here's a picture of my driver side door after media blasting... the filler will not be removed... no need to remove it to only have to put it back on.  |
Ok, I'm curious to know what you and martinsr would do. My 58 has had two paint jobs over the original blue. I've got blue (OG) then white, grey primer and top coat is yellow. The door jambs only had the yellow over original silver, and it wasn't sanded properly so I peeled it with a razor. The question is, it all seems pretty solid with the exception of a few spots, so should I just scuff everything that is good and on the bad areas use a 60? Or 80? Then 180 or 220? And clean it all up and prime, then hit any body work? Inside the bed is bad, mostly because they just painted over all the chips. The paint isn't failing, it's just ugly. I just spent 45min with some 80 to see how easy, or not that easy its going to be. The end goal for this truck is a nice daily driver, so I'm sure it will end up with door dings and chips eventually.