Quote:
Originally Posted by dz1087
I'm looking to get a camper trailer and will be pulling it with the Cheyenne. I'd like to get some opinions from the board on my plan and what I'm missing and/or need before executing.
Truck specifics:
71 C10 SWB
Rebuilt 350
Rebuilt TH350C
Rebuilt 3.42 Limited Slip 12 Bolt
Front Power Discs
Rear Factory Leafs
Receiver Hitch is rated at 1,000/10,000
The trailers we are looking at would be at max about 4,000, and maybe 4,500 fully loaded with all of our glamping gear. The trailers at the upper end of this range, from about 3,500 and up all have electric brakes. Tongue weights run up to about 400. Length would be 17 feet or under.
Is this advisable? Would I need to run a weight distro hitch? Would the SWB be overcome under braking?
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Might be mentioned, but check your GVWR for your truck, I'm now curious myself. That's the max weight your truck is valued at, including the weight of the truck, persons, gas, cargo and everything else RV/tow. In other terms, everything. Your hitch is solid, just know that truck wasn't meant to tow 10,000. IMO you want to remain
minimum 1K pounds lighter than the GVWR.
My guess is 4K or lower is a good place to be. I owned a few Fun Finders my old 4.7 Tundra could pull, the dry weight on those is 3800ish.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimus
My fresh water tank is in the front of the trailer and the waste water tanks are in the back of the trailer so a weight distributing hitch is a must have
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Agree and stabilizer bar makes a difference too. Just know weight distribution bars will leave
A BIG MARK if you're careless and especially
ALWAYS slack on their chains on & off - jack that sucker up until that happens. Imagine 800 LBs. behind a pipe striking your foot, for example. I know four guys who have been injured, and I'm one of them. Dumb luck no residuals to whine about, I forgot my shoes and ended up buying one's with a 3/4" thick tongue for the trip. Never felt that kind of pain before, not recommended
