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Old 10-19-2022, 03:52 PM   #143
Second Series
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Join Date: May 2015
Location: Tukwila Washington
Posts: 374
Re: 1947 Panel Truck Frame swap with ’88 k2500

I tried to remove the lower windlace retainer, but the screws would not budge. I fired up the O-A and heated each screw red hot and spritzed them with water. They came out like butter. This is the ’47 with two piece windlace retainer, unique to only a couple years. There is a 3rd small retainer on the back bottom of each door held on by Two screws. A little heat to get one of those off. The front retainer on the passenger side was damaged at the bottom while in the shop, so I’ll come up with a fix for that. I have not found a source for this part so I’ll work with what I have. The windlace retainer has one piece on the front of the door opening, and another on the rear. At the top where they meet is an embossed rectangle piece that covers the seam of both retainers as well as the first headliner retainer. This is the domino effect as I had to remove the headliner retainer last. None of this can go back on until the headliner is in place. The headliner is cardboard, so it will go on after the windows are in. I masked off the interior and sprayed Grey where it needed to go. The door jambs were originally the Bronze color. I was able to remove the passenger side striker plate, The screws wouldn’t budge on the driver side. I taped everything off and debated for several days either painting over the striker and hinges, or complete teardown. I decided since everything was working it would be o.k. to paint over as is.
I had some time and looking some more, one thing led to another. I started turning hinge bolts. After awhile the passenger door was on the ground and the hinges were on the running board. Full steam ahead, I proceeded to the driver side. One striker plate screw turned, the other three did not. I striped the phillips slot on two, sheared off the other. I tested the hinge bolts with the socket/breaker bar. They were not free. One acted like it was turning, but sheared off. I used heat and got the rest out.
It took awhile for me to accept the fact that my drill bits are dull. I also broke two bolt extractors in the process.
Another day at it with new drill bits and new extractors. I drilled through the striker plate bolts, both sheared off while using the extractor. I was able to remove the nut plates, but need to extract the studs or replace them. Where can I get striker nut plates?
I drilled through the broken hinge bolt, but the extractor wasn’t turning it. I can see the rusted stud through the side cowl vent hole so I sprayed penetrating oil on it. My plan is to spray it every day for a week or more and then try again.
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'47 Panel to '88 K2500 Frame Swap
Mechanical Speedometer Drive Solution
1947.2 1 ton Chevy Panel
1955.2 Chevy 6700 Bus/RV
1990 Chevy K1500
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