[dsraven]

if you wanna see how tight the tolerances are all the way around the crank, clean the bearings and the crank with a clean lint free cloth so no oil to speak of is on the bearings or the crank journal, then put some plastigage the full length of the bearing cap 1/2 of the bearing, then put the cap back on and torque it up being careful not to turn the crank while doing this. then remove the bearing cap and see what you have for clearance on the plastigage. if you don't know what plastigage is, it is a plastic thread that comes in different colors for different clearances, you likely need the green stuff that will show up to a couple of thousands clearance. when you put that on the bearing and then torque it up it will get squeezed and flatten out some depending on the clearance there is left between the two parts. then when you take the thing apart and look you will see the thread has flattened out. the little paper package that the plastigage come in has markings on it to compare the width of the flattened out plastic thread. really flat means not nuch clearance. of course the opposite for a thread that didn't get flattened out much. when you put the thread around the whole half circle of the bearing cap bearing shell and torque it down when you look at the plastigage after you can see if there are parts that show a more flattened out thread that other parts are showing. this can help you see if the bearing cap you bought is a close match to being bored on the same center line as your old cap. it's one in a million but there is a chance it is close enough to run it that way without doing any machine work. if thats the case then you need to buy your engine buddy, LG, me and yourself a lottery ticket. haha.