Thread: Engine builders
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Old 05-19-2024, 11:46 AM   #8
MikeB
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Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: North Texas
Posts: 3,444
Re: Engine builders

Quote:
Originally Posted by oneshotkyle View Post
Motortrend/engine masters did a BBC long rod vs short rod dyno comparison on a episode. It pretty much did barely anything as far as power.
Exactly. Any measurable difference would probably be within the margin of error between the two dyno runs. Now, if you're building a 16,000 RPM F1 engine, that's another story!

And the only reason to build a 355 instead of a 383 would be budget considerations, like when you already have a good 350 crankshaft, damper, flexplate/flywheel, etc.

My preference would be a 383 using 5.7" rods. Something I don't like about 6" rods is the oil ring pack running through the piston pin bore. Maybe that's not an issue, but it just goes against the grain (and my brain).

When I worked part time for an engine shop, most of the 383s we built used 5.7" rods, some making well north of 450hp on a dyno.

If you do go with a 383, be sure to read all you can find about relieving the block to clear the rods. Also, make sure to use the proper rods like these to clear cam lobes.

https://www.scatcrankshafts.com/prod...rods-arp-7-16/

And I'd recommend buying a balanced assembly from SCAT or Eagle.
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Mike
1969 C10 LWB -- owned for 34 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, 1st Gen Vintage Air, AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes.
1982 C10 SWB -- sold
1981 C10 Silverado LWB -- sold, but wish I still had it!
1969 C10 (not the current one) that I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming.
Retired as a factory automation products salesman.
Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop.
Member here for 23 years! This is the very first car/truck Internet forum I joined. I still used a dial-up modem back then!

Last edited by MikeB; 05-19-2024 at 11:51 AM.
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