Quote:
Originally Posted by RustyPile
That test only verifies good contact between the socket and housing.. You also need good grounding contact between the housing and bed, between the bed and frame, and lastly, between frame and negative battery post.. A quick method to test for loss of ground is to run a long jumper directly from the negative battery post and the bulb socket.. Don't depend on twisting the wires to make contact.. Use those larger alligator clips found on small battery charger/tenders.. Hook up the jumper and try those lights again.. If they work as they should, you definitely have a grounding issue..
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I disagree. The circuit would have to be complete in order for the multimeter to sense a difference in the potential energy between the socket and the housing. If the housing were not grounded, the multimeter would have read zero.
Regardless, with the two-wire setup on the tail lights (one pos wire for the parking lamps and one for the brake lights), a ground failure would prevent the bulbs from turning on at all. I've got good brake lights and good parking lights on both sides. The left brake light fails to come on
only if the right turn signal circuit is activated.