[dsraven]

-install cab and level cab with frame
-install and adjust doors to the cab, without latches installed, ensuring the hinges are in tip top shape with no slop and the doors are also checked for cracking in the usual spots that allow the door to flex. hinge mounting brackets spot welded on inside the door are suspect. with door bolted up open it slightly and try flexing the door. grab the lower section and the upper section and give them a twist in opposite directions.the door should be solid. and also try lifting the door when it is open to see if the hinges are a solid as you thought they were before you installed them. I have re-bushed and re-pinned a few hinges and thought they were good and tight, only to find with the added weight and leverage from the door the hinges were actually showing quite a bit of slop allowing the door to move. the new bushings didn't fit the pins as tight as I had thought. these tests, and associated repairs to fix the issues, will help you ensure the door closes the same every time and also ensures something doesn't flex and make the door to fender gap change enough so the door snags the fender when you open it.
-install the door latches and adjust. this is also best done with no weatherstripping installed because some weatherstripping, although brand new, is pretty stiff and can affect the way the door fits the opening and latches. personally I have had the best luck with soffseal weatherstripping. I helped a friend doing a '54 and the doors fit perfect, then he glued on some brand new seals from a trusted supplier and he couldn't get the door to latch. we installed some soffseal and it was like night and day difference. not slamming anybody's product, just saying, there is a difference in the flexibility of the seals and that affects fitment if it won't crush like it should
-install front sheet metal, rad support, fenders etc, no hood yet
-adjust fenders to doors, adjusting rad support height as required. on a frame swap especially, if rad support is as low as it goes and still needs to go lower you could consider shimming the cab up a bit, with identical shim packs under each mount, so the cab stays true to your cab to frame leveling job done previously.
-install hood and hinges, checking to ensure the hinges move freely and there is not a bunch of slop in the mechanisms. a worn out set of hinges can waste a lot of time trying to get the fit right and a lot of paint can get removed off the edges of the panels later when the paint is complete and re-assembly starts
-adjust hood to fit. you may need to adjust the width of the fender spacing by shimming the rad support to fender mounting at each side of the rad support. you may also need to shim the hinges at the firewall mounts to get the hood to sit down properly at the rear. it's amazing what a shim under the upper hinge mount can accomplish. leaving the X brace and hinges on the underside of the hood a bit loose can help you get the hood to fit better. if there is no engine in the frame rails you can get the hood to fit like you want it with the bolts slightly loose, then crawl up inside the engine compartment and tighten the bolts. another trick is to use pieces of tape on the hood and the hinges right next to each other and make reference marks on one of the pieces with a matching mark on the piece next to that. assemble the parts and then try to close the hood taking note of how much the parts need to shift on each side. then lift the hood and do the required movement according to the reference marks on the tape. remark at the new location and try again.
-once hood fits install the latch parts and adjust the latch to fit the hood in it's lowered and fit position. the latch shouldn't be pulling the hood any which way to get a final "fit" for the hood.