Quote:
Originally Posted by dsraven
hinge- there should be an access panel on the inside of the kickpanel just inside the door. you can possibly get a not on the back side from there. you can weld a stiff wire onto the nut if you cant get your fingers in there and maybe use that to position it. jb weld will harden up and then you won't be able to move the nut for hinge adjustment. originally the nut was a cage nut, a square nut that is held in place by a sheet metalcage around it. they are available from the fastener supply places so you could repair it back to a useable stock state. if the hole you have in the sheet metal is square, you could simply buy the cage nut with the sheet metal cage that snaps into that square hole.
https://questmanufacturing.net/produ...-silver-50-pk/ |
Thank you! Yeah I'm realizing that one was also a cage nut I forgot. I need to find those alignment threads I saved and remember how to try ro make ut all work. Mine definitely hang wonky but missing like 5 bolts so makes sense haha. Didnt realise I could find it on the inside access panel. Have to take a peek.
My bumper bullets are just missing the nut again and it seems you cant hold it from what I remember when I tried to put them on like 2 years ago haha.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dsraven
coolant reservoir- that spot should work fine. ensure you have a rad cap and rad filler neck that match for a closed system and good seal on the hose that connects the two. also the correct pressure rad cap, likely 15-16 lbs. if using a stock old truck rad also ensure it will take that kinda pressure
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Ok great! It's a champion radiator and it came with the cap so hoping it works right.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dsraven
horn wiring- the horn button simply grounds the horn relay so it will turn on and honk the horn. I think the horn wire from the column is black or maybe dark green. that is from memory so don't take it for gospel. you could easily test to see which one is a ground when you hit the horn button on the steering wheel.
here is a thread on horn stuff that may help
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=787400 |
Awesome I'll check it out! I have a black and a green I think on the Column harness
Quote:
Originally Posted by dsraven
seat belt hole drilling-try a step drill, they drill nice round holes but also stop you from busting through and drilling into something behind your hole, as long as you take it easy.
something to think about would be reinforcing the sheet metal behind the seat belt mount so it will actually hold your body weight should an accident happen, you don't want the bolt to pull through. ensure to use adaquate thickness steel under the nut on the back side
are you planning on lap belts or shoulder harness style?
if drilling through a muli-layered floor area, like where the old seat used to bolt on, ensure to use a tube inside the air space between layers so when you tighten down the fasteners it doesn't just crush the layers down. use a good sized wall thickness on the tube as well.
https://www.irwin.com/tools/drill-bi...eel-step-drill |
I have shoulder belts for the side and lap for the middle. I did buy good hardware and they come with reinforcing plates for the shoulder and floor like you see from
Here
https://www.wescoperformance.com/3poremokit.html
I wasnt sure yet how they would measure up to the location of the original seat used to bolt. Guess I kinda thought I would go behind that point.....or in front......
And I love my step drill....I guess I do have pretty good control just have to see depth I have to get for the 7/16th bolt and see how deep the drill bit goes. I also still usually do a pilot hole before using it too