Thread: 72 K30 Build
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Old 12-16-2014, 01:16 PM   #102
7dee2
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Join Date: May 2011
Location: Syracuse, Utah
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Re: 72 K30 Build

Quote:
Originally Posted by swamp rat View Post
I just had an idea but keep in mind i'm not a body man and never used it...

When i was getting ready to do my gas door my uncle also recommended using a flanging tool, but he also recommended using automotive body adhesive like is used in the newer body repair, i don't know anything about it but think its probably a 2 part epoxy?

Maybe there is just too muck area to assemble and squeeze into place tho not sure. Then how to squeeze it all into place? Cleco's perhaps?

http://search.eastwood.com/search?p=...d&w=Cleco&rk=3

Ether way i like the flanging idea and agree i think it will be helpful to keep it ridged.
Years ago we did a 66 Impala SS (pics in the Hub Garage link below) it needed both lower rear quarters. A friend of mine used the glue on method and it turned out great. Never had any trouble with those repairs. Car scored in the mid 90's out of 100 first time out at the local Concours d'Elegance in 2004.

Cleco's are a pretty cool idea and are kinder than screws I would own a bunch if I did this kind of work for a living. We have always used screws, magnets and various welding clamps. HF sells these intergrip panel clamps also and they have worked well. http://www.eastwood.com/intergrip-pa...-set-of-4.html

Quote:
Originally Posted by DWilbur View Post
I bought the same flange tool from HF as well. it worked good for punching hole to spot weld parts together. my builder trims the part about 1/2" bigger and steps a flange in it makes for a stronger joint and you don't have the warping issues from but welding sheet metal together.
I agree 100%!

Quote:
Originally Posted by patdaly View Post
I'm not sure how you would hide the flange without feathering a bunch of bondo over it.

If it makes you more comfortable, it probably won't hurt, but you are going to have to but some places no matter what you do, so why not measure carefully, start patch panel slightly big and trim carefully until you have it?

The only real negative on a seamed joint other than the obvious difficulty in hiding it is you generally have an open side where moisture can get to.
I wish this tool would make a deeper flange but I'm surprised at how close to flush it is. A little butt welding but no biggie, I think we can hide most of the repairs.
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67 Camaro SS Build:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=751594
72 Cheyenne/10 Super 115" Fleetside (Waiting it's turn.)
72 Cheyenne/K30 Super 133" DRW SOLD Build:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=645614
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Last edited by 7dee2; 12-16-2014 at 01:27 PM.
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