Quote:
Originally Posted by Dead Parrot
Pull a couple of the 'easy to get to' plugs and inspect. If they are still wet with gas after sitting overnight, you have found your problem. Verify the gap is set to .045.
If you manually operate the throttle while looking down the carb, you should see gas squirt into the openings. This is from the accelerator pump and is a quick test for "Gas in the Carb". This is a NOT while cranking test.
2nd the thought that this current problem sounds like a timing issue. It doesn't take much slippage of the distributor to go from running nice to no start. Another quick test - can you move the distributor as it sits, without loosening anything? You shouldn't be able to.
If you do plan on opening the carb, get one of the gaskets for the top in case you damage the one on there during your inspections. While the top is off, check the jet sizes so you will know what is in there for later tuning efforts.
Download the manual for that carb and read up on setting the float levels. They are often wrong out of the box. Too high a level can lead to flooding.
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Spark plugs are new and I gapped them when I installed them. Pulled 4 of the spark plugs, tips are all black but dry and don't smell fuel fouled.
There is absolutely no concern of a gas issue, if I crank long enough I see clouds of unburnt fuel coming out the exhaust. Also if it was a fuel issue then starting fluid or gas that I have dumped into the carb would have at least made the thing run for a second.
I can agree that this sounds like a timing issue, or a no compression issue. And I would be more accepting of that if it wasn't for the fact of it starting and running driving down the road the weekend before.
Tried turning the distributor, that thing don't move at all.
I have had that carb apart about 8 times, I have checked the float level I forget the size but its something like using a 3/8 or 5/8 drill bit to check it. And if it is any incite to the skill of the previous mechanic. I got the tune kit for my carb, went to re-jet it. once I put the new metering rods in I noticed the lid wouldn't pop down with the metering rods in. I had to remove them and install them after the lid was on. Then looking at the metering rods that came out of the carb... they were bent.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillac_al
There aren't many mechanics left nowadays. Most shops just have auto techs that read codes and replace parts. Dead Parrots instructions will solve your problem. If the plugs have drowned, they will most likely have to be changed.
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Yeah I agree I worked with a mechanic fresh out of school that was diagnosing a hesitation on acceleration (as in accelerating to pass). He checked codes, found none, told them to just not do that. My boss don't test crap either, he charged a customer to rebuild the abs module (without first checking DTC's) because the vehicle disabled the traction control, it came back, based on codes he charged them for a throttle body, turned out to be coils, since cylinder misfires will disable traction control. I try to not be that way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eyegore
If it was rebuilt, could the distributor be off 180 degrees? Had this happen last rebuild I did.
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I agree with geezer, it wont run 180 out, also be a little strange if hitting the accelerator while it was running made the distributor spin 180 degrees.
Quote:
Originally Posted by geezer#99
Another thought!
Your 200+ mile rebuilt.
Did you do a proper cam break in on it?
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So, this wasn't my rebuild, because I have bigger plans for this engine in a rebuild. I have no idea what they did or who did it or anything. All I know is that they told me they rebuilt the engine 3 years ago, and apparently parked it I changed the oil when I got it. The 200+ miles is just what I have driven it. alot of around town two trips to Portland (40mi) two or 3 trips to mill city (30mi), a trip to Jefferson (20mi) all approximate mileages. My point is more indicating this truck is drivable.