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**71CHEVYSHORTBED402** · 12-04-2018, 11:31 PM

Well I've done my first brake job. Few things I've learned. 1. Don't buy Dorman's spring kit it's junk. The caps don't lock onto the springs and their front shoe return springs are wrong, so I used my old ones. I didn't have to replace the drum shoes, or anything else rear brakes. Truth is, I like the shoes I pulled off better

I also learned I'll NEVER spray bomb my axle hubs again. Thought I did everything right, but the paint chips too easily. No big, let em chip. They were a gloss finish, but as you can see I didn't like the sheen

I took the notes below, which come from various sources of information. But for a quick down and dirty, this guy's web page helped me a BUNCH. It's one thing to take them off, it was another to install them. http://www.pbase.com/nufsed/drumbrake

_________________________________________________________________________________________________

Rear Brakes and Parking Brake Lever

• The wheel cylinders are not interchangeable. Insert the wheel cylinder into the hole in the backing plate. The fitting for the brake tube nut faces the rear, and the bleeder is on top. NOTE: The stamps on the cylinders removed from this truck were (LH is 7565 6), (RH is 7565 1). In a mounted position, the "Made in USA" stamp on these is upside down.

• The wheel cylinder mounts onto the backing plate using two 3/8" flange hex screws with integrated star washers. The screw threads are 5/16-18 x 1/2. NOTE: The screws are stamped "B&H".

Rear Brakes & Parking Brakes Bench Assembly

• Lubricate the exterior of the rear parking brake cables with silicone.

• The brake shoes are not interchangeable front to back. The rear brake shoe has more brake pad coverage than the front brake shoe. The top of the shoes have a half circle to form around the anchor shaft.

• The parking brake levers are not interchangeable. The slot in the lever for the strut faces forward. The clevis pin on the parking brake lever inserts through the back of the rear shoe using the top hole in the shoe. Order of assembly from the inside out: Clevis pin on parking brake lever > anti-rattle wave washer (domed portion faces the lever (I think) > rear shoe > E-clip. NOTES: Brake grease can be used to lubricate the contact areas where the clevis pin attaches to the brake shoe.

• The brakes adjusters are not interchangeable. The caps pull off to reveal the correct adjuster (stamped L or R). A thin washer fits between the adjuster gear and cap. The brake adjusters have prongs on each end to secure the adjusters between the bottoms of each shoe. The prongs on the cap side of adjuster fits onto the rear shoe. NOTES: Brake grease is an option to lubricate the cap shaft and threads. Facing the axle hub turn the brake adjuster gear (“star”) toward you to expand the brake shoes adding pressure against brake drum.

• The brake shoes link spring is 3.1/16" long from one end of the hook to the other. The spring attaches to the bottom hole of each shoe. The longest hook inserts through the back of the rear shoe, and the shortest hook inserts through the face of the front shoe. The spring must avoid contact with the brake adjuster gear.

Rear Brakes & Parking Brakes Wheel Assembly

• Lightly lubricate the six contact points on the backing plate where the shoes meet the plate. Anti-seize is an option. Do not get grease on the brake pads.

• Insert the push rods into the brake cylinder. The prongs on the push rods position vertically so the shoes insert into the prongs. The top of the shoes will fit onto the base of the anchor. Check these fittings as the brakes are assembled.

• Insert the parking brake cable onto the hook on the bottom of the parking brake lever. The cable fits onto the hook between the cable spring and cable nut. Place the shoes onto backing plate.

• The front shoe hold-down spring is 1.1/2" long and more narrow on one end. This spring is generally green. Insert the hold-down cap into the rear hold-down spring. Insert the hold-down pin through the backing plate and brake shoe. Place a flat washer between the spring and backing plate. Push the spring in and twist the cap over the pin to lock. The cap is indented to secure the prongs on the pin end.

• The pivots are not interchangeable, one is stamped “R” the other “L”. The pivot has three hooks. One hook inserts through the back of the brake adjuster lever. The pivot only hooks on one way; the longest hook will be on top and facing rear. The brake adjuster levers are not interchangeable. The contact point on the lever is placed onto the face of the rear shoe. The hole in the lever lines up to the hole in the rear shoe located third from the bottom. NOTE: You can use brake grease to lubricate the contact points for the pivot and brake adjuster lever.

• Insert the rear shoe hold down funnel washer into the hole on the face of the brake adjuster lever.

• The rear shoe hold-down spring is 1.1/16" long. This spring is generally light blue. Install the pin and spring the same as that for the front shoe; however the rear shoe uses the funnel washer instead of a flat washer.

• The strut plate has two prongs on each end. The longest prongs face forward. The rear prongs are two different widths. Position the strut plate so the widest rear prong faces the backing plate. The orientation must allow clearance for the adjuster link.

o A 1.1/4” strut spring slides onto the front prongs on the strut. There’s a “handle” on one end of this spring. Insert the handle end of the spring onto the strut with the handle positioned up nearest the brake cylinder. The spring’s handle contacts the face of the front shoe. The strut plate inserts between the slot in the parking brake lever and the front shoe.

• The guide plate fits onto the anchor nearly making contact with the top face of the brake shoes. If it's supposed to make contact with the shoes I'm all ears. See third image

• The brake adjuster lever return spring is 1" long. Place this spring onto the tab on the brake adjuster lever. The spring fits between the lever and the rear brake shoe.

• The brake adjuster links are not interchangeable. The bend in the link must clear the brake cylinder. The "eye" portion of the adjuster link fits onto the anchor with the hook on the top end positioned to the rear and facing out. The other end hooks onto the top hook on the pivot.

• The adjuster lever override spring is 3.1/4" inches long from one end of the hook to the other. The spring’s "Z" hook inserts into the hole on the face of the adjuster lever. The other end attaches to the pivot’s rear hook. The hook attaches onto the pivot from underneath on the passenger side, and from above on the driver’s side. NOTE: Be sure the “Z” end on the spring correctly oriented. The length of the spring’s coils should be flush or nearly flush against face of the adjuster lever. This spring is tuff, though a flathead screwdriver works.

• The front return spring is 5.1/8” long from one end of the hook to the other. These springs are generally gray. The spring’s “L” hook inserts into the hole on the face of the front shoe above the strut. The longer end hooks onto the anchor placed outside of the adjuster link. The spring hooks onto the anchor from underneath on the passenger side, and from above on the driver’s side.

• The rear return spring is 3.3/4" long from end of the hook to the other. These springs are generally black. The shortest hook inserts into the hole on the face of the rear shoe above the pivot, and the longest one hooks onto the hook on top of the adjuster link. The spring hooks onto the adjuster link from above on the passenger side, and from below on the driver’s side.

Brake drums and brakes adjustment: Clean the inside of new drums to remove the oil that was applied for rust prevention. The brake drum seats over the axle hub. As a starting point, adjust the brakes so the drums move with slight resistance. The brakes are self-adjusting, which occurs when the parking brake is applied or the brakes are applied when traveling in reverse.

12-04-2018, 11:31 PM	#99
71CHEVYSHORTBED402 Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Northern Nevada Posts: 7,120	Re: Build that 71 402 already Well I've done my first brake job. Few things I've learned. 1. Don't buy Dorman's spring kit it's junk. The caps don't lock onto the springs and their front shoe return springs are wrong, so I used my old ones. I didn't have to replace the drum shoes, or anything else rear brakes. Truth is, I like the shoes I pulled off better I also learned I'll NEVER spray bomb my axle hubs again. Thought I did everything right, but the paint chips too easily. No big, let em chip. They were a gloss finish, but as you can see I didn't like the sheen I took the notes below, which come from various sources of information. But for a quick down and dirty, this guy's web page helped me a BUNCH. It's one thing to take them off, it was another to install them. http://www.pbase.com/nufsed/drumbrake _________________________________________________________________________________________________ Rear Brakes and Parking Brake Lever • The wheel cylinders are not interchangeable. Insert the wheel cylinder into the hole in the backing plate. The fitting for the brake tube nut faces the rear, and the bleeder is on top. NOTE: The stamps on the cylinders removed from this truck were (LH is 7565 6), (RH is 7565 1). In a mounted position, the "Made in USA" stamp on these is upside down. • The wheel cylinder mounts onto the backing plate using two 3/8" flange hex screws with integrated star washers. The screw threads are 5/16-18 x 1/2. NOTE: The screws are stamped "B&H". Rear Brakes & Parking Brakes Bench Assembly • Lubricate the exterior of the rear parking brake cables with silicone. • The brake shoes are not interchangeable front to back. The rear brake shoe has more brake pad coverage than the front brake shoe. The top of the shoes have a half circle to form around the anchor shaft. • The parking brake levers are not interchangeable. The slot in the lever for the strut faces forward. The clevis pin on the parking brake lever inserts through the back of the rear shoe using the top hole in the shoe. Order of assembly from the inside out: Clevis pin on parking brake lever > anti-rattle wave washer (domed portion faces the lever (I think) > rear shoe > E-clip. NOTES: Brake grease can be used to lubricate the contact areas where the clevis pin attaches to the brake shoe. • The brakes adjusters are not interchangeable. The caps pull off to reveal the correct adjuster (stamped L or R). A thin washer fits between the adjuster gear and cap. The brake adjusters have prongs on each end to secure the adjusters between the bottoms of each shoe. The prongs on the cap side of adjuster fits onto the rear shoe. NOTES: Brake grease is an option to lubricate the cap shaft and threads. Facing the axle hub turn the brake adjuster gear (“star”) toward you to expand the brake shoes adding pressure against brake drum. • The brake shoes link spring is 3.1/16" long from one end of the hook to the other. The spring attaches to the bottom hole of each shoe. The longest hook inserts through the back of the rear shoe, and the shortest hook inserts through the face of the front shoe. The spring must avoid contact with the brake adjuster gear. Rear Brakes & Parking Brakes Wheel Assembly • Lightly lubricate the six contact points on the backing plate where the shoes meet the plate. Anti-seize is an option. Do not get grease on the brake pads. • Insert the push rods into the brake cylinder. The prongs on the push rods position vertically so the shoes insert into the prongs. The top of the shoes will fit onto the base of the anchor. Check these fittings as the brakes are assembled. • Insert the parking brake cable onto the hook on the bottom of the parking brake lever. The cable fits onto the hook between the cable spring and cable nut. Place the shoes onto backing plate. • The front shoe hold-down spring is 1.1/2" long and more narrow on one end. This spring is generally green. Insert the hold-down cap into the rear hold-down spring. Insert the hold-down pin through the backing plate and brake shoe. Place a flat washer between the spring and backing plate. Push the spring in and twist the cap over the pin to lock. The cap is indented to secure the prongs on the pin end. • The pivots are not interchangeable, one is stamped “R” the other “L”. The pivot has three hooks. One hook inserts through the back of the brake adjuster lever. The pivot only hooks on one way; the longest hook will be on top and facing rear. The brake adjuster levers are not interchangeable. The contact point on the lever is placed onto the face of the rear shoe. The hole in the lever lines up to the hole in the rear shoe located third from the bottom. NOTE: You can use brake grease to lubricate the contact points for the pivot and brake adjuster lever. • Insert the rear shoe hold down funnel washer into the hole on the face of the brake adjuster lever. • The rear shoe hold-down spring is 1.1/16" long. This spring is generally light blue. Install the pin and spring the same as that for the front shoe; however the rear shoe uses the funnel washer instead of a flat washer. • The strut plate has two prongs on each end. The longest prongs face forward. The rear prongs are two different widths. Position the strut plate so the widest rear prong faces the backing plate. The orientation must allow clearance for the adjuster link. o A 1.1/4” strut spring slides onto the front prongs on the strut. There’s a “handle” on one end of this spring. Insert the handle end of the spring onto the strut with the handle positioned up nearest the brake cylinder. The spring’s handle contacts the face of the front shoe. The strut plate inserts between the slot in the parking brake lever and the front shoe. • The guide plate fits onto the anchor nearly making contact with the top face of the brake shoes. If it's supposed to make contact with the shoes I'm all ears. See third image • The brake adjuster lever return spring is 1" long. Place this spring onto the tab on the brake adjuster lever. The spring fits between the lever and the rear brake shoe. • The brake adjuster links are not interchangeable. The bend in the link must clear the brake cylinder. The "eye" portion of the adjuster link fits onto the anchor with the hook on the top end positioned to the rear and facing out. The other end hooks onto the top hook on the pivot. • The adjuster lever override spring is 3.1/4" inches long from one end of the hook to the other. The spring’s "Z" hook inserts into the hole on the face of the adjuster lever. The other end attaches to the pivot’s rear hook. The hook attaches onto the pivot from underneath on the passenger side, and from above on the driver’s side. NOTE: Be sure the “Z” end on the spring correctly oriented. The length of the spring’s coils should be flush or nearly flush against face of the adjuster lever. This spring is tuff, though a flathead screwdriver works. • The front return spring is 5.1/8” long from one end of the hook to the other. These springs are generally gray. The spring’s “L” hook inserts into the hole on the face of the front shoe above the strut. The longer end hooks onto the anchor placed outside of the adjuster link. The spring hooks onto the anchor from underneath on the passenger side, and from above on the driver’s side. • The rear return spring is 3.3/4" long from end of the hook to the other. These springs are generally black. The shortest hook inserts into the hole on the face of the rear shoe above the pivot, and the longest one hooks onto the hook on top of the adjuster link. The spring hooks onto the adjuster link from above on the passenger side, and from below on the driver’s side. Brake drums and brakes adjustment: Clean the inside of new drums to remove the oil that was applied for rust prevention. The brake drum seats over the axle hub. As a starting point, adjust the brakes so the drums move with slight resistance. The brakes are self-adjusting, which occurs when the parking brake is applied or the brakes are applied when traveling in reverse. Attached Images __________________ Tony 71 Custom Deluxe, SWB, 2WD, 402, A/C. I developed an assm. guide "kit" for restoring it from ground up. With assys, the guide accts for 1000s of OEM identifications and part numbers, all written in short order. 700+ images include assm, illust., charts, and points of interest. Much of the info. applies to all 67-72 GM trucks, and to a lessor degree all 67-72 GM vehicles. My build thread, and more on the guide https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=730025 Last edited by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402; 12-05-2018 at 12:17 AM.