[Ironangel]

Originally Posted by Tx70Gmc

Yes the old pump 3 times and hold method then Release the bleeder and tighten bleeder then she pumps 3 more times, etc.

Bubbles came out out first, but then a steady fluid stream, just like its suppose to.

The bleeders are facing towards the front.

The bleeders should be on top of the caliper piston reservoirs, facing up to allow all the air escape and not be trapped in a higher location in the piston reservoirs. Do you have a pic of the calipers and bleeders? Also, I dont know where you got your bleeding method but it's wrong! The shop manual gives a clear detailed procedure. Your helper slowly depresses the pedal after you have opened the bleeder. Before the pedal reaches the bottom of the stroke, you close the bleeder. Then your helper slowly releases the pedal. You can bleed your brakes by yourself with a glass quart jar and a section of 1/8" or 3/16" approximately 24" inches long. You simply attach one end of the tubing to the bleeder barb, it must fit tightly, and the other end of the tubing in the jar filled 1/3rd full of brake fluid. The end of the tubing must be be submerged in the brake fluid. Open the bleeder 1/4 to 1/2 turn and make sure the reservoirs in the MC are filled. Now press the pedal slowly down and release it slowly, do this about 3 times and check the level of fluid in the MC reservoirs. Fill as needed and check the fluid in the hose at the bleeder and jar. When no air bubbles are no longer seen in the (clear) tubing, your done, tighten the bleeder and move to the left rear caliper. Follow the same procedure...Never mind that power bleeder because your just going to complicate your problems with it. You may need to take your calipers off the mounts (one at a time) and either rotate them on the rotor where the bleeder is up at the highest point where air bubbles would gather and have your helper pump the pedal while you hold the caliper on the rotor. The open bleeder with tubing attached and jar must be in place before pumping the pedal. Maybe using a piece of scrap steel the same thickness as the rotors placed between the pads will allow you to remove the caliper and hold it in a position with the bleeder up. The scrap steel is only to hold the pads at the correct width so you can reattach them to the rotor. I think those calipers are possibly positioned wrong not allowing all the air to escape. Again, a picture of the caliper and bleeder would be helpful. Take that power bleeder back and get one of these, this will allow you to reverse bleed your system by pumping fresh fluid right into the calipers and right on into the lines pushing air out at the MC reservoirs. You'll need a turkey baster to draw fluid out as you refill the system from the rear forward. https://www.amazon.com/Phoenix-Syste...2-8997e41410bb Here's a very good video depicting the correct procedure. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TOF4vhblUvw