[HO455]

Sunday's project when like clock work for once. I replaced the rear trailing arm bushings. I used a lift as I am a cheater, but it can be done on jack stands without removing the trailing arms from the rear end. You have to have the truck high enough that the rear wheels are off the ground and room for a jack under the axle. Spray penetrating oil on the bolts and all around the bushings. This process is for replacing stock rubber bushings with stock rubber bushing
You need several things before starting. A 8" piece of All-thread 3/4" or 1/2" (3/4 is self-centering) with two nuts, several heavy washers, 1 1/2" diameter. ( Just under the diameter of the small end of the bushing) a piece of 2" ID thin wall tubing about 4" long, like exhaust pipe that will fit between the top and bottom flanges on the arm and still let the bushing pass through without touching, and a large washer or plate to go over the end of the tubing. A additional spacer to install the bushing is also needed. It must fit over the rubber on the lipped end of the bushing and be able to press on the lip to push the bushing into the arm. These pieces make up the bushing removal/ installation tool. If you have the new bushings it is pretty easy to find the correct sizes. You will also need a spacer three inches square by one inch or equivalent to hold the arm in place while you work on it. Two wrenchs one for each of the nuts on the bushing tool, two large wrenches for the trailing arm bolts, a 5 foot long 2x4, a wire brush, a propane torch, and penetrating oil is all that is needed.
Once you have the truck securely on the jack stands use a wire brush to clean all around the bushings. If you have a lot of rust then some Emory cloth should help to clean up the center area of the bushing. Spray with penetrating oil. Then remove one of the bolts that hold the front of the arm. 1 1/8" wrenches are what I needed. There was very little pressure on my arm at this point and by jacking the axle up about 1/2" the bolt was free and I pulled it out by wiggling the trailing arm. The next step is to get the arm to drop down below the tabs that hold it to the cross member. By jacking the axle up and pushing back you can get the arm to clear the mount. (I know it seems odd but jacking the rear end up makes the arm drop up to a point then it's all armstrong.) It will be harder to get it to drop farther but it is necessary. I used a 5 foot long 2x4 over the arm and under the frame rail and pulled the arm down and put the bolt back in place above the arm. The 3x3 spacer is now used to go between the top of the arm and the bottom of the bolt. (Photo 1 shows what you need to achieve. I should have found a more photogenic spacer ) This next step is much easier with help. Pull the arm down with the 2x4 again and insert your spacer(s). If you don't have help a bottle jack and a piece of 3/4" plywood to protect the floor board should work too.
Once in place you have to assemble the bushing tool. (You may want to hit it with the wire brush and oil again now the bolt is out of the way.) All thread goes through the bushing. The tubing goes over the larger end of the bushing without touching the bushing. (On my Burban the large end was on the drivers side.). The big washer over the end of the tubing. The smaller washers go on the other side centered on the bushing. (Photo 2 shows order of pieces. Photo 3 installed.). Once everything is in place put some lube on the All thread and install the nuts. After double checking that the tubing is clear and the washer centered slowly tighten the nuts. The small end with the washer will want to shift around so you may have to take a piece of wood and a hammer to recenter it. The rubber on that end will push over and try to jam things up. (Photo 4) I just took a scraper and peeled it off as it happened. Once you have things snugged up (not knuckle busting tight) take the torch and heat the area on the rail that surrounds the bushing. No need to get it red hot just hot enough so your spit sizzles when you spit on it. You just want the holes the bushing goes through to slightly expand from the heat. Then spray some penetrating oil on the bushing between the rails. This lubes the bushing and helps cool it so it contracts slightly making it easier to get out. Then tighten the nuts some more and the bushing should push right out. Pay attention to make sure the bushing is moving and you are not deforming the arm. Particularly stubborn bushings may require you cool and reheat the arm to get it to break free. This method will remove 90% of the bushings out there. If you a 10%-er then more drastic means will be required. It only has to move about a quarter inch and it is free, so sawsalls are an option as would be removing the trailing arm and using a press.. (Sawsalls aren't necessarily the one I recommend.) Once it is out take your wire brush and clean the area around the bushing.