That is what creates bump steer. your tie rod pivots on a shorter radius that the control arms, so as the suspension moves up and down the tie rod will steer the wheel in and out. A bit will not matter, too much will make the truck squirrely or even dangerous depending how you drive it
The simplistic ideal is that at ride height control arms and tie rods are parallel, horizontal, the same length and all pivot on the same plain driving straight ahead. All IFS have some bump steer that gets worse as you turn the wheel and move the tie rod pivot in and out. The OEM I beam and steering in our trucks was near zero bump steer, but even they had some as the steering box moved the drag link pivot out of line with the rear spring perch
The Gbody setup is more complex and designed by smarter people than me.
look where the tie rods pivot on this stock-ish setup, it is inboard of the lower arm pivot but the tie rod arms are long to minimize toe changes as they swing up and down
Your setup may be fine for street driving a truck. Set ride height with lower control arms level, make sure tie rods and rack mounts are well enough done to not fail mechanically and test drive it.
maybe someone with more experience driving setups like this can comment?
here is a description of bump steer that is better than I could write
https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/ct...eer-explained/
there are some gbody specific bump steer articles, but most are selling something.