There are sooo many turn signal flashers out there... "I need a round flasher" doesn't give enough information. Do you have a two or three wire flasher? What is the flasher part number? Sometimes it's important to be able to look at specs.
Quote:
|
So, my question is, why would everything work as it should, with all the LEDs in place, with the key on and engine off? When the engine is running and the blinker is turned on, the irregular flashing and high flash rate starts.
|
Very hard to say without testing. If you want to assume the flasher and LED's will work fine together, we can run through guesses.
It's possible that the alternator is producing some A/C. If you remove the alternator electrically and the problem disappears then you have a clue the issue may be caused by the alternator.
It's possible your ignition system is causing a problem. Spark voltage leaking from wires or engine compartment wires running parallel to a coil or spark plug wire could cause voltage spikes. You could try moving wires in the harness or spraying water on the plug wires and watching for a corona of blue sparks.
It's possible the turn signal flasher doesn't correctly recognize the voltage changes between "light on" and "light off." Or it's possible that it is still a current sensing flasher rather than a true voltage sensing device and the change in current flow is so minimal that the circuitry doesn't operate correctly. Changing to a true voltage sensing flasher could help with this.
It's possible that a fan or other device in the truck is not grounded properly and is trying to ground through a light circuit. Figuring out which device may be on when the truck is truck is running would be a key part of diagnosing this issue.
It's possible that your charging voltage is too high and the electronic circuitry in the flasher is trying to regulate voltage to the lights. Highly unlikely, but possible. Getting flasher specs could help with this.
It could be, as mentioned earlier, the rear LED bulbs are wired incorrectly for the vehicle and are causing a short between circuits. It could also be the pins are not aligned with the contacts or the pins are at same height allowing the bulb to be installed incorrectly. I've had to diagnose all of those issues. Changing to different LED bulbs could help with this. Using a meter to check the LED orientation could also help with this.
It seems like there are too many problems with aftermarket LED installations. We use LED lights in many vehicles in our fleet. They are quality lights and the price generally reflects that. We generally don't see the problems that are reported here on the forums.
If you want to try diagnosing the problem, I'm sure there are folks here that can help. Get yourself a test light (a bulb style, not an LED style), a digital volt and ohm meter, and some type of old fashioned tail light that can be used to substitute for an LED light. With those tools handy I know you'll get help.