Quote:
Originally Posted by _Ogre
all of this is in my build thread
you can see all the pieces i used to make the transition to the kicks
big piece is 3/8" plywood, i did rabbet the edge to superglue 90° of 4" mailing tube
i used a lot of superglue with the activator during my fiberglass phase
glue it, active it and stick it. fresh activator will go fast and look like frost forming
the left side starts with plywood shaped for the lead edge
it's glued and screwed to the plywood that goes across the front
i glued some mailing tube inside to form the big radius
and pie cut the lower transition to the kick
notice that i did all my console, sub enclosure, column cover, and facsia on finished paint
tape and wax made it peal right off the paint
i probably put 5-7 layers of 3/4oz chopped mat on at this stage
column cover has a mdf yoke and mdf block for bolting on
4" mailing tube with label, i believe my bed strips came in it 
i had just cut off the hi/lo beam switch cuz the plug was a bigassplug |
I did look through your thread and of course saw these pics and read your descriptions.
Actually, I think YOU can see all the pieces because you know they're there! I could clearly see the edge of the plywood but it hadn't occurred to me that you joined it to the long flat piece (with screws I guess?). I still don't quite "get" how the mailing tube is being used under that curved corner of the dash I guess because it's more tighter curved than the more gentle curve of the dash but I suppose if I bent it, back sliced it or maybe(?) moistened it, it would relax the tight curve. Yeah, moistening it is probably a no-no with resin/glass.
I suspect once I get all the pieces and start messing with them a way of joining it all will come to me. Good info on using smaller pieces of glass mat in tighter spaces. I suppose that's to elminate wrinkles?
I need to start thinking how the piece I make is just the thing the glass will cover and doesnt have to be EXACTLY the shape of the finished part on the back side as long as I make provisions for mounting it securely.
PS: The idea of glassing in place when I have finished paint IS scary to me. You're telling me you masked off anything you didn't want resin to get on, right? But newspaper would just absorb the resin so shouldn't I use a piece of thick plastic drop cloth? The tape holding the masking over the paint won't hold on freshly waxed paint will it? Or am I misunderstanding your use of the wax?