[VetteVet]

Originally Posted by Hellfire420

sorry, it's a 68 chevy c-10, I just took the instrument cluster out and apart, tested the fuel gauge with power like on the link you gave out and it will go up and down. I can't accurately test the resistance cause all I have is a POS multimeter, might see if I can find someone with a good and accurate one, but I noticed that it shows no, or close to it, resistance between any of the connections, even between the fuel gauge and temp gauge, so I wonder if it's a sign of something else wrong. Maybe I'll get it working and my other gauges will start working too, but it's been a long time since I've tinkered with it. I'll keep working on it and check the things you mentioned.Here's a guide for you.



Also, what all is supposed to be coming out of the tank. I remember checking the sender wire for a short or open a long time ago, but I'm also reading about a ground and I don't have anything else on the tank but the fuel line and sender wire. I would assume it's grounded out through the tank itself. Thanks for the help.

You'll just have the tan sender wire and it runs to the fuel terminal on the fuse panel. The sender does ground to the tank and the tank grounds to the frame or at least it should. The float operates the variable resistor on the sender which varies the resistance to the fuel gauge and gives the reading on the gauge. If the float is stuck and not moving the variable resistor that would account for no movement on the gauge. Since you said the fuel gauge moved when you removed the wires like the test in the link I posted. I think it may be the problem. If you pull the sender you can test it by connecting the red lead of the multimeter on the sending unit post and the negative lead on the sender body. Then when you move the float arm up and down you should get between zero and ninety ohms. Zero is empty and ninety is a full tank.