[54belair]

I am going to revive this thread--------very good information.

this is aug 2017 so the door seal thing is an ongoing problem. Too bad we cant have a sticky on the forums about this issue.

My experience and solution: After investing thousands in my build I arrived at the weatherstrip issue. I purchased about 4 yrs ago the current (at that time) design of precision push on seals. When I recently got to put them on--the doors acted as if there was a block of wood preventing them from shutting. I contacted gmcpauls and found out that there was indeed a new design with a formed corner at the top and they were thinner. I asked if the glue on were thinner and was told that when installed the glue on and the push on were the exact same thickness. Nothing was mentioned about a different design pattern between the two types.
I had seen that some guys were talking about using dodge Dakota door seals and having good luck. I was at a point where I would try anything.

I went to a local pick and pull and found an excellent Used pair of 1994 reg. cab door seals. I carefully removed them, cleaned them up and have so far installed the pass. side--------The FIT was nearly perfect, the hard bends were in the same places and I still had about 4" of the Dakota seal to cut off.

The doors closed with medium pressure where I had a 3/4" gap in the back previously. I at first wasn't pleased with the idea of used door seals--but I looked at 6 wrecked trucks and found 1 very good set. I spent $12.50 and 1 hours time and I'm so pleased with these used seals that when my new chevy seals from gmcpauls get here, I doubt that I change them out. When the new door seal plates get here and I finish the installation I will be posting pics on my build.

I wish I had found this thread first and seen the pics of the diff seal profile---woulda saved me some time!!! The V profile makes all the diff. in the new seals. So forget push on-----get glue on!!!