Geezer, would I be able to see the secondary blades well enough on a Q-jet with the air doors open to know if they're misadjusted? Or will I have to remove the carb for that?
Both mixture screws, if turned in, will cause the engine to sputter and die eventually. What I don't get is why more air speeds it up but less fuel does not.
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So which is it? 12 or 15 initial. Accuracy is the key. That's why you confirm your timing tab with a piston stop.
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You'll have to defend that one. What do we care if it's 12 or 15? It's not 4, which is the tuneup spec, so anything other than 4 is "wrong", no matter how accurate you are about it. Doesn't matter to me if it's 12 or 15, so if it matters to you, you know something I don't, and you should share...
I've got to think on it some more, but because the timing tab is based off the CRANK gear, it's not even clear to me what I could confirm other than the accuracy of the timing tab, which as noted, I presently don't care about. I can't diagnose anything about the valvetrain with a piston stop and a timing tab, at least I don't think I can, but I could be missing something.
Vacuum advance is where it's supposed to be, but I tried doing it wrong out of the gate to make sure that wouldn't solve it (of course connecting it to manifold vacuum kicked in a bunch of idle advance, but it didn't help, or I would have been done). So it's back to ported. Long story short, it maxes vacuum around 12-15 degrees as noted, whether you get there via the vacuum can or static adjustment of base timing.
The only other thing I can think of is that even though the well screws were epoxied, I still think it drains fuel, as you have to crank for a while to fill the bowls when it's sat for a week. It also eventually overheats at idle no matter the weather, but it takes 30 minutes of idling to do it... it just creeps.