Quote:
Originally Posted by AussieinNC
One final thought, you havent mentioned if this is a 6 cyl to 350 conversion, as well as an auto to manual conversion.
There are several different engine mounting positions with these swaps, and each one will require a slightly different mix of parts.
The critical things in this install to remember...the cross shaft must be a parallel to the ground as possible and the upper bell crank lever should be as close to 12 o'clock position when installed...maybe a little like 11.55 when viewed from the outside. When the clutch pedal is pushed down, the upper rod moves down against the bell crank cross shaft, the shaft rotates counter clock wise, pushing the lower bell crank lever backwards.
The linkage pivot you mentioned has only a depression...you will need to use a round end push rod and retain it with a spring usually pulling back against the travel direction...these usually attach to the chassis near the pivot mount bracket.
There are a multitude of after market kits available...if you need more help, just hollah...most of us dont mind helping out  |
Aussie,
This is an auto to manual conversion, BBC to SBC (sort of). I purchased the truck last Fall and it came with a good running 454 and a slipping 700R4. While searching for a transmission, I came across an LT1/4L60E combo for a great price so I decided to go that route. As I started digging in, I decided that a true hot rod should have 3 pedals so I found myself a NP440.
Out came the 454/700R4 and in went the LT1/NP440. I acquired a pedal set along with bellcrank and linkages from a 1968. I'm not sure but guessing that it was a L6 truck based on the way things are fitting up but not certain.
When I tried to install the bellcrank the first time it ran directly into the headers. After several hours of searching, I found a good post about the difference between L6 and V8 engine perch locations. It turns out that the fellow who installed the 454 dropped it in the L6 location. At least I know that the was originally a L6 truck.
I moved the engine forward into the V8 position and now the bellcrank is closer but still not correct.That was kind of a bummer as I had already cut a tight-fitting hole in the floor for the shifter and had the d-shaft lenghtened.
Here are some photos of the linkage and bellcrank I am working with.
With the ball stud installed in the threaded hole above the oil filter and the bellcrank square to the engine, the frame mount is over an inch out of position.
When I install the frame side mount, the bellcrank can't be installed to the ball stud on the engine as it binds up against the shaft of the ball stud due to the diagonal misalignment. The bellcrank seems to be too long for the application. Also note that the ballstud seems a bit long for the application. It came installed on the bellhousing from the NP440 (1984 C10).
Here is a shot of what I was referring to about the lower push rod and clutch fork. I don't know what is going to keep it from bouncing out, even with a spring load. Maybe I should drill out the dimple and let the rod pass through allowing the to rest on the shoulder?
Lastly, the upper push rod has next to no bent to it thus there it can't reach far enough outboard to attach to the belcrank. Other than these issues, it is going pretty well!