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Old 05-12-2020, 03:49 PM   #3
skyphix
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Hampden, ME
Posts: 406
Re: First time swap started

If I can do it, you most certainly can. I ended up going aftermarket harness and reflashed PCM just to get it done, knowing I wouldn't have the time to put in to trimming out a stock harness. I'll be picking up HPTuners as well, though. I work in IT and really enjoy the tuning aspect of modern cars.

I used DirtyDingo sliding mounts - no reason, specifically, but I am glad I did. My frame has the "converter hump" in it and I would have had to get tricky with my trans crossmember if I couldn't slide the entire engine as far forward as it will go. Not great for handling or traction, but gets me on the road.


I also used the dirty dingo trans crossmember. My truck had previously been converted from i6/3speed to 350/th350 and... poorly. So for various reasons, the $100ish I spent on the trans crossmember saved me WEEKS worth of time.

I used TBSS/Buick Reinier manifolds, cut off exhaust stubs from a 2500 pickup with the O2 bungs in them, and made up my exhaust. Its not a fancy exhaust, but it gets the job done. I need to finish running it out back, but it was a learning experience (first few times welding.)


I was going to do nylon fuel lines initially as well - But when I added up the cost, it came out to roughly the same, or close enough, that PTFE braided from hotrodfuelhose.com made a lot more sense. I also ended up buying a new fuel tank so it had at least a little sump area/baffled area. Fuel stations can be few and far between up here. Being that you have a return style fuel rail setup, it may end up cheaper for you to do the nylon or nylon to hard line to nylon. Mine is returnless so I had to buy a $40 fuel filter/regulator regardless. I do like that its all new and easily serviceable though.

I started out doing it on a budget, and in some areas stayed that way, but ended up spending money in areas I felt made sense. The harness and fuel system specifically. I went budget on the cooling system though - factory radiator out of a 2006 GMC Yukon (34" core with its electric fans) - though I did buy a new replacement radiator, I am using the fans from my donor Yukon. I figure if it could cool that engine in a 5500lb vehicle, it wont have any issue in my 4000lb vehicle. I've only got a dozen miles on it and the warmest temperatures its seen so far are mid 60's, but even letting it idle in the driveway with no fans for a long time, I haven't seen temps above 194 degrees. And when it hits 194, it drops back down to 190 and just fluctuates between the two, presumably where the thermostat opens and closes. Happy to help if I can. I documented most of what I did and have a spare 5.3 with a bunch of spare parts here to reference if needed.
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Eric
1980 C10 SWB
2003 Chevy Suburban 2500 LT
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