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Old 05-24-2020, 09:19 AM   #100
hatzie
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Location: Wentworth, NH
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Re: 1973-1991 Dual fuel tank systems theory of operation

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick_R_23 View Post
Speaking of LS swaps, does an 85-86 C10 with factory dual tanks have the correct wiring to install an updated 65 psi valve or is it still required to get the whole harness/switch/valve kit?
The wiring is the same. Pollack mad a change to the shuttle and body to withstand 65psi. Or they actually tested it at that level and discovered it works...
Either way I wouldn't put an old valve together with a higher than TBI pressure fuel pump.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GonicGM View Post
I recently had my OEM Pollack valve completely fail to the point of requiring replacement. For decades it worked to the point of being passable. It really never had trouble switching to the left tank, switching to the right was finicky. When it did not switch completely, the gauge would over sweep clockwise and truck would starve for fuel. I would switch back and forth and to the point it finally read properly on the RH tank, the switch-over was full and complete. That process recently failed and neither tank would read properly but I could pull from the left, I just didn't know how much fuel in LH tank. Needless to say, time to change valve.

I went through and tested 9 or 10 valves I had with test on truck, wife inside, me underneath. One flat did nothing. All others you could clearly hear and feel the switching action. Most read properly on LH tank, RH tank gauge would over sweep clockwise. Only two passed the test 100%.

It seems a comprehensive test requires fuel gauge feedback. Most valves fail for RH tank selection. All but one valve felt and sounded operable on simple bench test, even the one just removed, however, such valve will not uncover ports for RH tank.

FYI
Sounds like they are gummed up or worn out. You might be able to soak the valve section in hot PineSol and water to free them up. How long they'll live after that treatment is questionable at best.

I would probably exercise the valve to keep it happy.
Fill up both tanks. Run one down to 1/2 and switch over. Fill the low tank before the runnig tank is down to 1/2 and don't switch back til the one you're operating out of is at 1/2.
Then flip back and two that way so the valve doesn't have a chance to get gummy and stuck.
On long trips you can run down to 3/8 switch and grab a fill when both are down. That way you have 1/2 tank of fuel between them so it's not urgent. I usually have to urgently go to the Mens room or get some caffeine before I need fuel.
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