Quote:
Originally Posted by Asshat
When removing the front cover for the cam, is it absolutely necessary to remove the oil pan? Or, can I just remove the bolts that go into the front cover?
Thinking about a cam upgrade for the motor, but I'm not sure if it is worth the trouble. Maybe I should just do the 4bbl intake with Rochester carb?
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Do you know the mileage since the last build?
If you replace the cam, you'll have to get fresh lifters too.
When I did it the whole thing was apart, so I could reach thru a cylinder hole and guide the cam end along. Do cams have their own bearing halves, like the crank and pistons? I don't remember... The crank was installed later, too.
I guess you could R&R the cam thru the front Timing Gear Cover without dropping the Oil Pan. Pull the lifter side plates off to change out the lifters. Pushrods should be good if not bent or chewed -- put them back in their same hole.
To get the head off in situ, you will have to pull the pushrods out, and 5 & 6 are problem children, as they are too long and hit the alcove of the firewall. * Solution is to loosen drivers side motor mount and remove passenger side mounts and rotate whole block 30* to truck's right. The radiator, grille, and maybe radiator bulkhead have to go too, to get a straight shot thru the front to mount the cam. You will need a new set of timing gears. Don't use plastic, get aluminum.
* Redneck solution is to make 4 - 1'' holes in the firewall 'roof' with an electrician's hole cutter, but that's kinda ugly and requires patching later.
Pros will pull the hood and radiator and cherry pick the engine out, so they can work on it in a shop.
In the pic below, we pulled the whole doghouse off, except for the passenger side fender and skirt, which we left for reference. But that was an engine swap. L6s don't like to lift out with the trans attached too.