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Old 01-25-2016, 02:36 AM   #71
El Dorado Jim
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: El Dorado Ca
Posts: 3,374
Re: 1970 K20 Restoration

The front will bolt right in, the rear will require moving the shock mounts and spring perches, to move perches, I put the rearend on two stands made for holding pipe, have vee's on the top, I level the perches,then use chain vise grips to hold the housing from moving, then grind the welds off the perches, set the perches where I want them ,level them,then weld them back on, then I grind off the shock mounts and move them where they need to be....then weld them on, I have had to modify one shock mount, the one closest to the pumpkin,so I could weld it on...I wouldn't think a shop would charge a whole bunch to do this for you...definitely worth going to the 14 bolt over your Eaton, will be a better rear end and you will save money in buying brake drums, etc. for it...wish I was closer to you, I would move the perches and shock mounts for you...something I don't think got mentioned to you, is that you will need a brake booster/master cylinder/proportioning valve setup from a 71-72 C20 or K20 get the bracket and braces that brace it to the firewall and the rod from the brake pedal to booster....I could be wrong, your brake booster bracket and setup may work haven't seen your setup(,you could post some pics of your booster and bracket)I may be able to see what you have, but you will need the master cylinder and proportioning valve for sure , the reason I say I am not sure is I went from 1/2 ton to 3/4 ton stuff in my truck and not sure what your existing stuff looks like,I knew I had to change all mine....

Last edited by El Dorado Jim; 01-25-2016 at 02:43 AM.
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